I have never built a Spinning rod but I needed this for my Grandson for Christmas... What is your opinion on the shape and length ?

Its 14 1/2" inches long and if it matters its a 6 Foot 1 PC Blank


[www.rodbuilding.org]


Thanks
Skip

Hey Skip,
The way I do it is, I build the grips to fit the customers hand/arm. My general rule of thumb is to measure from the part of the reel seat where the persons had will grip the reel, then measure to where the butt of the grip will rest against the "thickest" part of the forearm.
Good luck,
Jeff

Hi Skip, It looks like beautiful work!

I like to see 6 to 6-1/2" from the end of the blank to the beginning (threads on an up-locking) of the seat. It's really a preference thing a lot of times. I've had customers insist on longer rear grips, and others so short it looked weird. Again, it's a BEAUTY



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/09/2011 03:21PM by Bruce Vetre.

I like it, nice work.

______________________________________
Super Tight Lines......Don

Another thing is I myself do not like to have my hand resting on the threads of any seat I would have it turned around so the threads are up

Then I also like my grips to - flow and be the same size as the seat and then Taper to the blank

But that also depends on the user If it is good for them ???

if the seat is a 16 i would go for 18 size would match the grips better - if it fells good to the user ???

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/09/2011 03:52PM by bill boettcher.

Thanks Fellas I think I'll turn the seat around ..... See I said I never built a spinning rod LOL

Its hard to tell if the user likes it Its going to b e under my Tree for the Grandson...

I'll throw a pic up after I get it done

Thanks again

I would leave the seat how it is.... I personally don't like to feel the threads with my fingers. All personal preference when it come to things like that.

______________________________________
Super Tight Lines......Don

Skip it looks good to me. I wouldn't make it a down locking either. One observation, the foregrip and the butt grip is sloped smoothly towards the blank and the rear of the upper section of the rear grip has a pretty abrupt shoulder facing the lower grip. Just in my opion, that upper rear grip doesn't flow with the others. Very nice cork work overall.

JIM MOWL Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Skip it looks good to me. I wouldn't make it a
> down locking either. One observation, the foregrip
> and the butt grip is sloped smoothly towards the
> blank and the rear of the upper section of the
> rear grip has a pretty abrupt shoulder facing the
> lower grip. Just in my opion, that upper rear grip
> doesn't flow with the others. Very nice cork work
> overall.


Thanks Jim I spotted that a bit ago and fixed it...

Thanks again everyone

Very Nice!! Like Don, I prefer the seat uplocking (threads to the rear) There is NO right or wrong way.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

If you have gone fishing with the grandson try to find out a rod he has used and the handle on it

I know it is a present but you could ask

Or make it and if it bothers him -- Redo it

Bill - willierods.com

Here is what I ended up guys Thanks

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Looks great Skip.

The workmanship is excellent, nice work, Skipp. I would not turn the seat around either. I really like up locking for two reasons. No thread contact with my thumb and finger ahead of the reel seat, and it allows freedom in the design of the front grip or ramp. I prefer ramps for light duty rods like this one-you don't need a front grip at all. Just personal preference, but I would make all the cork smaller in diameter, especially for a rod for a youth. The front grip can have the same diameter, or just a little larger than the seat hood, and taper quickly (or not so quickly to show off the cork work) to the blank. I would do a matching ramp behind the seat, and save that beautiful rear grip for a casting rod (taper to rear, front diameter matching the seat-look at the shape of St Croix casting rods, very good ergonomically).

The last comment is based on a mistake I made on one of my first spinning rods-I made the dimension from the reel seat to the butt too long and the rod butt would catch on my clothing during certain fishing moves. This is especially important for a youth as their hand to elbow dimension may be smaller than adults. I don't know what your rod dimension is, but it is an issue to take into consideration.

All of this is just personal preference-that cork work is beautiful and will work fine.

The workmanship is excellent, nice work, Skipp. I would not turn the seat around either. I really like up locking for two reasons. No thread contact with my thumb and finger ahead of the reel seat, and it allows freedom in the design of the front grip or ramp. I prefer ramps for light duty rods like this one-you don't need a front grip at all. Just personal preference, but I would make all the cork smaller in diameter, especially for a rod for a youth. The front grip can have the same diameter, or just a little larger than the seat hood, and taper quickly (or not so quickly to show off the cork work) to the blank. I would do a matching ramp behind the seat, and save that beautiful rear grip for a casting rod (taper to rear, front diameter matching the seat-look at the shape of St Croix casting rods, very good ergonomically).

The last comment is based on a mistake I made on one of my first spinning rods-I made the dimension from the reel seat to the butt too long and the rod butt would catch on my clothing during certain fishing moves. This is especially important for a youth as their hand to elbow dimension may be smaller than adults. I don't know what your rod dimension is, but it is an issue to take into consideration.

All of this is just personal preference-that cork work is beautiful and will work fine.