I've read through Tom Kirkman's Rod Building Guide (twice). Great foundation for getting started.

I'm on my third rod in as many months. The first two, while perfectly fishable, have disappointing wrap finishes. I'm almost done with a beautiful (pre-epoxy) 13' 7wt spey rod and need advice before I botch this one, too.

Rod #1 I used a single coat of color preserver, wraps got splotchy once the epoxy went on.

Rod #2 I used no color preserver and my two tone wraps look like a mistake (not enough contrast between caramel blank, gold, now brown, accent wrap and green, now nearly black, main wrap).

The spey rod (#3) is a dark blue/green, I used a bright blue thread (no accent) and I'd planned on letting it go dark/translucent with just epoxy, no color preserver. Seeing the bare wraps, I want to keep the strong, bright contrast. Nylon (A) threads are packed tight. If I'm to use color preserver successfully, what do I need to do besides three coats? Is it worth the risk of complications?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Even with CP the threads are going to darken a bit. Two or three coats of it should be enough. Make sure that you are getting good coverage and allowing it time to dry between coats. It does take some practice imo. If you don't like the finished wraps, take them off and start over. No big deal and worth not being disappointed in the final result.

Rufus
Port Saint Lucie, FL

Darkening a bit is fine. Being splotchy is not. Will be prepared to strip and start over necessary.

Craig,
The fastest way I know of to be able to tell what your wraps will look like with finish on them is to make a wrap, soak it with water and it will look as close to a finished wrap as using epoxy without all the mess or having to make a test wrap where the handle or reel seat will cover it.

Your blotchy look may be from threads that are not packed tightly. Make a few test wraps and pack one real tight and don't pack the other and finish as you normal would and you will see what I mean. The dark spots are the blank showing through.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Great tip, Jim, on getting the threads wet. Will do that tonight. Hoping to avoid the CP.

Fred, the blotchyness appears to be more than just the blank showing through. I heated the epoxy with a lighter to get bubbles out and suspect that I may have been overly aggressive with the flame. Could this have caused the epoxy to soak into the threads in some areas more than others?

Craig
Blotches can be caused from inconsistant thread tension and inconsistant thread packing. I dont pack thread. My thread tensioner has two nuts locked down so if I spin my spool backwards it doesnt loosen, even with slotted washers I've seen the wingnuts turn and loosen a bit. I try to keep a constant angle on the thread as it meets the blank and only manipulate thread as it climbs onto the guide foot if needed. After wrap is locked down I burnish it and thats it. On the wraps that I have used CP on I didn't have a streaking problem but I'll confess I dont usually use lighter colored thread for a main wrap which is usually the colors that streak. In my opinion, a power wrapper would be usless if you had to stop every 10-15 wraps and pack thread. Make some practice wraps trying to keep the thread butted up as you wrap, maybe a little more tension and try finishing like you did when you got streaks and I'll bet they will be much improved. Another tension problem can be caused by the type of thread used. Fish Hawk winds their spools with large sweeps and it doesnt pull off the spool evenly. Pro wrap is wrapped in close coils so it comes off much smoother and consistant. Just some of my observations that might help....no gaurentees!!
Good Luck

Jim

I have not burnished my wraps. I may have missed this step in Tom's book but I don't know where to start on burnishing. What tool do you use and how do you use it?

Any rod building supply retailer will carry them. They are a hard, smooth, plastic spoon like tool pointed at one end. Use the rounded side and with light pressere you rub it accross the threads. It basically flattens and widens the thread to help close gaps. If your tension is too loose it will cause the oppisite and thread will move and cause gaps. The pointed end is handy to help manipulate and straighten thread when the foot causes irregularities.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/07/2011 04:25PM by JIM MOWL.

Thanks, Jim.

Your welcome.
Another bennifit of burnishing is the tag end that you pull under the wrap to lock it, you can use a little more pressure on them and make them almost if not totally undetectable.

While turning I always put a wet coat on A thread. and with the threads well packed and burnished wait till it soakes up the CP then about 15 - 20 min depends on how warm another Then let dry over night If D size thread maybe three coats

Bill - willierods.com