I'm mechanically uninclined. What is the best way to cut the various graphite tubing from Batson, or the Lamiglas Texalium at home and still have a nice, straight cut? I have some that came as a kit and I need to cut the foregrip section off.....

Thanks,
Phil

Put tape around the tubing where you intend to cut it and the mark the tape. Cut with either a band saw or very sharp hacksaw.

I use a chop saw with a grinding wheel on it and have no issues.

the best way to cut them is with an arrow cut off saw it cuts straight, but all the other suggestion will work if you do not have one nor wish to buy one.

Just use an abrasive chop saw.

Here is the equivalent of an another cut off saw for little money:

[www.harborfreight.com]

or

[www.harborfreight.com] ---replace the metal blade with a 3 inch abrasive disk for clean cutting.

Take care
Roger



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/03/2011 10:10AM by roger wilson.

Wrapped tape around piece marked and cut it with my Chop saw with a Fairly new Carbide Blade, no damage! Placed a uncut piece of Wood behind it for less blow out

[www.rodbuilding.org]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/02/2011 05:37PM by Barry Thomas Sr.

Outstanding... gotta love HF.

Does this work for heavier blanks as well? Thanks for the info.

Hmm... the machine is easy enough to order but seems the wheels are in store only? Need to order online, not in a location can go to a Home Depot or anything. Any recommendation for the carbide wheel for the 6" cutoff?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/02/2011 07:13PM by Phil Richmond.

roger; I bought on of those! First could NOT order the cut off blades on line from H-F, instore only. I ordered them for someone else. It is loud and does not work well. cutting soft alum almost brought it to a stop. have made two cuts with it. soon to be dumped!

Hmm... OK, so what to pick up?

Barry,
If you bought one of the smaller chop saws, I can send you a replacement motor if you like. I had the same issue: i.e. not enough power.
I had happened to pick up a bunch of similar motors that I think were used for blender motors. Much more power than the original motor. Plenty of power to cut through any thing. I commonly will use it to cut through inch thick steel bolts with no issue.

If you want a motor, just drop me an e-mail and I will send one out to you:

hflier@comcast.net

I just buy the common 3 inch adhesive wheels from Northern. Very inexpensive and they work very well.

[www.northerntool.com]


----
Phil,
I also have made a chop saw from an 8 inch miter saw. I use a thin machinist cut off wheel, that is somewhat expensive because it is so thin but it works very very well for all sorts of chopping and trimming.
One could simply put an abrasive blade on a standard miter saw, but if you do, you will find that you will quickly run out of down room due to saw design as the blade wears. The saw will only come down the necessary amount for a standard 8 inch steel blade.
If you start with an abrasive wheel and it wears, you soon will not be able to cut all of the way through the stock. As a result, I use a piece of channel to raise the cutting surface up two inches and then just mount a piece of angle stock behind the center of the blade cut to use as a back stop for the work.
Here is an example of one of the first chop saws that I modified. I have since sold this saw to another fellow rod builder.


[www.rodbuilding.org]


Roger



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/03/2011 10:09AM by roger wilson.

"Here is the equivalent of an accor cut off saw for little money: " accor? Better check the spell check Roger.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

A fine tooth hack saw will work well Mark it then scribe all around it to cut the top fibers so it does not splinter Then cut

Bill - willierods.com

Fred,
Thanks for the check.
The issue has been resolved.
Roger

Phil,
Another nice option is to use a table saw with a miter gauge that has an abrasive cut off wheel mounted on it to replace the metal blade.

Take care
Roger