Searches only produced the importance of a good fit but not the preferred length. I am repairing a very ultralight rod with an inside diameter of .042" at the break which is about 5" from the end. I have so far removed the guide at the break and the tiptop which allows me to slide the sleeve over the blank. I then epoxied a piece of .036" piano wire inside and I have it cleaned up and ready for the sleeve. I have a sleeve that is about as perfect of a fit as possible, but am not sure as to the length. I would also like to turn it down a bit so as not to be overly strong or way ugly. How long and how thin would you go on this one?

Is this size piano wire ok or should I have gone to maybe .040"?

I hate to see this happen, I just built this rod this spring. MHX S841 7' ultralight and what a blast to use. I can't believe how far that thing will throw a nightcrawler with no weight, I hope this repair doesn't change that too much. Well thanks for whatever help you can give me on this.

This whole rod building thing has been quite an educational adventure and I guess repairing them is part of the education. Visiting this site has been like going to rodbuilding college and I thank all of you that patiently answer so many questions, trying to teach those of us that new to this addictive behavior. Every night I watch the news checking out the news anchors neckties for new color combinations, that ain't normal.

Thanks to all, Jeff

Do not put piano wire inside the break. It's not needed and will only create a problem.

Measure the OD of the blank at the point of the break and make the sleeve a length that is at least 4 times that amount on either side. In other words, if the break has occurred at a point that is 1/4 inch in diameter, make the oversleeve at least 1 inch in length on either side of the break. There is some overkill built in, but it won't be enough to cause any problems provided your oversleeve is glass, not graphite.

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Tom,
I read and understand your post.
I do use a piece of piano wire all of the time on very fine blanks to insure no crushing of the blank in the repair area.

May I ask why you are suggesting that the piano wire will create a problem. I have repaired many fine tipped rods this way and have never had any issues.

But, I am always willing to learn.

Roger

p.s.
I did do a repair a fine tip with only an oversleeve, and that repair failed. As a result of that experience, I always put either an inner sleeve, or if the blank is very fine, piano wire. Piano wire tends to match the bending moment of the blank and no issues with gluing in place.

Thanks again.

You're changing the characteristics of the blank in that area. Blanks change shape slightly when they're flexed and you don't want anything inside there to interfere with that. There should be no reason that the blank would be crushed in that area from the oversleeve.

You might get by using it but it's not at all necessary and stands to create more problems than it solves.

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thanks guys.