I don't build a lot of rods so my materials may sit around for a long time. Is it possible or even generally true that an older an epoxy gets, the shorter the pot life?

I am using Threadmaster and I swear this stuff is thicker and setting up more quickly than I remember. I let the bottles sit in hot water or I get bubbles like crazy. I know that heating it accelerates the cure, but never like I am experiencing now.

The Threadmaster Lite takes forever to harden up and I use it as first coat only because I do not think it is as durable as the regular, so going to Lite is not an easy fix.

No. That doesn't change. But hot weather, or sitting the bottles in hot water prior to measuring and mixing, definitely shortens pot life.

.................

I use threadmaster. As far as the bubbles try the following:
1) Mix slowly for 2-3 minutes.
2) Pour the mixed epoxy out on some aluminum foil. You want the epoxy to be as thin a coat as possible on the foil. This extends pot life and releases bubbles at the same time.
3) Take a drinking straw and blow on the epoxy to break the bubbles.
4) Let sit for a minute and repeat step 3.
5) Now you should be ready to apply and there should be very few bubbles.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Maybe as I use the Light version more and more, I have a different reference point.

As far as bubbles, I bought an epoxy mixer and wow what a difference it makes.

Thanks, all.

Tony

Tony,
I suspect that the accelerated setting up is likely a side effect of the heating in hot water I have found that by using one of the epoxy mixers I not only get a complete mix but I also get no bubbles. I started using one of these about 2 years ago and they are fantastic.
[www.mudhole.com]

Regards,
Todd Vivian
Mud Hole Custom Tackle

todd@mudhole.com

IT's jus tthat it's summertime now and it's warmer, so it's setting up quicker. I bet the last time you used it it was a heck of a lot colder.

I mix Threadmaster into a froth like scrambled eggs, apply the finish which has so many bubles in it you can't even see what color the thread is. I then go back with a propane torch and heat teh finish as it spins on teh rod, and there are zero bubbles. THat's the only way I've found to get no bubbles, the other ways I've tried there are always micro bubbles but you usually can't see them unless oyu look really close or take zoomed in photos of the rods & wraps.

Mmmmm. Tonto says "fire good". Frankenstein says "fire baaad!"

Billy - The first books I read said do not touch the epoxy with flame and my teacher of this craft recommened the same thing. You can really flame these? That could be fun.

Todd - I appreciate your experience with the mixer, but I still get bubbles with Threadmaster regular if I do not warm it. In fact, that weight gets stuck up on the inside during the rotation then falls with an audible "plop" creating more bubbles

Thanks,

Tony



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/29/2011 02:00PM by Tom Kirkman.

Do testing and see what happens yourself. I'm not saying to burn teh epoxy, passthe torch underneath - heat is what causes the bubbles to go away, not hte flame, not carbon dioxide. This is why there are less bubbles in the summer with finishes, the epoxy is thinner...but it also sets up faster

Ultimately HEAT is your friend ....... Flame (IE FIRE) is your enemy. Propane torch passed rather quickly; alcohol torch whisked along the side (not directly under the wraps); heat gun for combination of heat and air flow to burst bubbles at the surface ... ALL work. Moderation is the key - get it too hot (runny / drippy) and you may well create micro bubbles that continue to be released from within the weave of the thread. Practice, practice and more practice on a system that you are comfortable with is the key.

Tony

I'm just now finishing a rod with Threadmaster that is about 2-3 years old. I also thought that mine seemed a little thicker right off the mixer and it seemed to get stringy alot sooner that it used to! I don't heat the finish before I start. It might be a tad cooler being stored and applied in my basement, therefore a little thicker. I only heat gently with a light bulb about 6" away from the wraps while the rod is turned slowly. I actually get smoother guide & butt wrap finishes with the thicker finish! I power mix and pour the finish onto a flat surface and never have had a bubble problem.

(Timer is beeping! Time to go down and check the dryer)

Rog

Thanks, all for posting.

Ken, you are right about those micro bubbles and cured me of that years ago. I still use the heat gun but definitely less time on each wrap. Before, I was using too much epoxy and had to hold it there for too long to make all the bubbles disappear, ironically creating additional bubbles that were tiny and looked like sparkles.

Tony,
Based on yours, as well as others experience; I wonder if the best policy is to only buy enough wrapping finish that you are going to consume in 6 months.
Then, throw out any remaining finish and buy new if more is needed?

Wouldn't this eliminate a lot of the questions and all of the issues?

I know that when I was doing custom painting with two part epoxy paint, I made a point of never keeping the hardener for more than 6 months. It seems that the pigmented side of the paint would last forever, but not the hardener.

Take care


Roger