Hi all,

I currently use a on/off switch to turn off the dryer when I am applying epoxy but now that I have extended my handwrapper I dont want to be reaching over each but rather have an additional switch which I plan to add somwhere in the middle of the wrapper for easy access. I wont like to be able to use any of the switches to turn on or off. Is there any diagrams that I can use. Not sure what you call this type of circuit.

I guess my other option is to just have the one switch and have it move to the middle of the wrapper.

Bill,

Buy a couple of 3-way light switches from Home Depot and wire them as you would a light in a room that can be turned on and off from diferent locations. Place the switches along your work bench and use them to power on and off the dryer.

Hope this helps,

Andres Perez
Miami, Fl

Thanks..

Bill,
The very simple thing to do is to simply get an off and on foot switch that you use to turn the dryer off and on.
Must move it down the length of the rod as you work. It will always be within toes reach. Never have to lift a finger to flip a switch:

Roger

[www.harborfreight.com]

Use either the momentary one - where you keep your foot on it all of the time to keep the motor running, or use the tap on, tap off model where the motor will either remain off or on, depending on what the last tap of the switch did.

I use the tap on, tap off model to use with the dryer. It is easy to move the switch down the length of the rod, as you move down the length of the dryer.

Or, the suggestion by Andres is also a good one. i.e. you could mount multiple switchs on the front of your benck to allow for easy access.
If you wanted more than two switches, you could always incorporate a 4 way switch into the mix as well.


Here is a good lesson plan on how to wire up a circuit of two switches using 3-way switches, or more than 2 switches with 4 way switches.
You might actually like the use of 4 way switches, and put in three switches with one at each end and one in the middle.

[www.wfu.edu]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/18/2011 08:49AM by roger wilson.

You can also use a slip chuck, /I saw these at Mudhole's class and they are very useful for stopping the rod while applying finish

Billy Vivona Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You can also use a slip chuck, /I saw these at
> Mudhole's class and they are very useful for
> stopping the rod while applying finish


I second that, I purchased the Flex Coat slip chuck about 5 years ago and use it every day for my epoxy work.

Walt Davenport
"Roadhouse Rods"

I will try and answer your question on the wiring for the switches. If you were to wire them in a ‘parallel circuit’ then either switch could be used to turn the motor off or on provided that the other switch is off. If you were to wire them in a ‘series circuit’ then both switches would have to be on or closed to turn on the motor and either switch could be used to turn the motor off. You can use Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, for wiring diagrams of series & parallel circuits. Hope this helps.

Dave, your answer is correct for single pole, single throw switches but not for other types. Someone above mentioned a "three way switch" It is a single pole, double throw switch (without a center off) that will allow him to do just what he wants. They are wired in series and commonly used in normal lighting circuits to allow someone the ability to turn a light on or off from two different locations. You can add as many "four way" switches as desired in between the three ways and turn off the same light from as many different locations as desired.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Thanks Guys,

I like the Power Maintained Foot Switch. Very handy. Hope they make them in 220-240v.

I also like the slip clutch idea. I have sychronous 9rpm motor.

Thank you all for your help.

Bill,
The particular harbor freight switch has a rating of 125 volts according to the manual specs.
But if you like the foot pedal but don't trust the switch, you can always substitute a switch with a different rating.
For example:

[www.grainger.com]

This - power maintained - switch is rated for 6 amps at 125volts or 3 amps at 240 volts.
Most dryer motors only draw a fraction of an amp so this switch would be just fine to use for a dryer switch if you chose to use it.

However, the posts mentioned about the use of the slip clutch on the chuck are right on and are likely the best way to go for most folks who want to easily stop their rod when applying finish.

By the way, the slip clutch works very well if you like to apply finish faster at something about the normal drying speed of 6-20 rpm.
Some folks like to apply finish at 100-200 rpm. This is the application that the clutch was really designed for. i.e. it was designed for production rod users who like to apply finish quickly using a 100-200 rpm finish application motor and then transferring the rod to a slower turning machine afterward.

By the way, I have posted this before, but if you want to use a foot switch and like to apply finish faster, and if you have a power wrapper, use your power wrapper to apply finish.
Just put some cardboard under the rod - in between the rod rests to keep finish drips off the bed of the wrapper and go for it with the wrapper.

I use the wrapper every day to apply finish and it works very well indeed. You can start or stop the rod at any time with your foot pedal. Turn the rod at any speed that you want, when applying finish and transfer it to a constant turning dryer when the finish is applied.
The only thing you have to do after finishing a rod wrap is to put the cardboard under the rod, apply finish and transfer to the dryer.

Good switching and drying
Roger



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/19/2011 06:19AM by roger wilson.

The end of Roger's last post is imo the best way to apply finish. I dont 'bother with teh cardboard under, when teh epoxy that drips cures it pops right off the lathe with a razorblade.

Billy,
Good point on the use of the razor blade to pop off finish. I use one all of the time on the bench to clean up the finish that gets on that surface.

I suspect that the finish would pop off the metal base of my wrapper equally well. I think I will start using your method, since there is seldom any finish dripped on the cardboard anyway and it would just save the delay and hassle of putting down the cardboard.

Thanks for the thought.
Roger

Bill Jovanovsk

Here is the schematic for 2 swithes to control your Dryer. You can do it for less than $5.00

Click on this link: [members.cox.net]


Rena