Roger;
In answer to your questions, and comments;

“It is for this reason, that I would never use thread to mount a reel to a handle. When something happens to a reel, what do you do.”

Usually I carry enough rods to simple put it down and pick up another, if there’s enough space to tote extra reels, I include the rods with them.

But for those times there are not enough rods;
The same thing you do!
Remove the wrap and reel then tape on another temporarily until back the shop where it can be rewrapped it with thread.
Sure it may take a little bit more time to remove the first reel, but how often does that really happen.
Been building them that way since 1982 or 83 and have only had to redo 3 rods, the first two I replaced the worn out reels after 20 years of faithful service. Then 2 years ago broke a reel and replaced it with another.
Actually not much more work then stripping off a guide.


“The simple fact is that - STUFF HAPPENS. A reel breaks, a rod and reel get dropped into the lake and need to be taken apart and dried out, a different reel needs to be used on the rod. A reel that is different wants to be used on a rod. etc. etc”.

Have dropped several rods in the water while fishing and have never had to take them apart to “dry out” (don’t even know why you would want to).


“A Tennessee handle with a reel taped to the handle is one of the most comfortable and easiest to use, and lightest systems to use for both soft and hard water fishing.”

How would you know?
Based your comments you’ve not tried one with a thread wrap.

There are down sides to using thread, just as there are down sides to using tape. What you do depends on the out come and quality of work you are looking for.

You mentioned what you consider down sides to thread, here are some of what I consider down sides to tape;
1. Tape is heavier then a thread wrap
2. Hast to be redone as things loosen up with time.
3. Depending on tape used (electrical) it gets soft during hot weather and the glue looses some of its holding strength allowing the reel to wobble or move around some, also making the fingers sticky.
4. IMO; the biggest draw back to using tape; is that it is a rubberized material, held on by a rubberized glue, that does little more then to rob sensitivity and feel from a rod that the builder has worked so hard to make sensitive by using the Tenn. handle to start with.
5. By wrapping more between the reel and seat, you only worsen the lose of feel.
6. Again IMO; Electrical tape looks like something that should be used on an old cane pole, not a custom rod.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/24/2011 09:11AM by Steve Gardner.

I have used the TN handle since 1980's and over the years made a couple of changes to "my" system with the suggestion of Rich Forhan.
1. I do file a flat space for the reel foot. You can extend this but I usually have tested the position and know where to place it. 1/4 inch wide is enough.
2. I cover the cork with masking tape as described.
3. I use two strips of packing tape on each end of the foot - 3/4 inch wide or whatever I can find and long enough to overlap at least 1".
4. Then cover with 3-M black tape an inch or two beyond the foot.
With the strapping tape it will NOT move.

I have seen a thread wrapped reel and think it would work very well too. And shrink wrap would make a nice grip sruface but I would still do steps 1, 2, 3.

And yes I am from Tennessee!!

One thing to consider. I have had reels taped on for years with no issues. But once I got some gas/oil on my hand and didn't realize it until I picked up a rod. Then it started getting slimy as the adhesive loosened. I had the same thing happen with some bottled scent attractant. My hand was all black and gooey. I still use tape, but the one reel I wrapped and finished was the most comfortable one I had. I am going back to thread wraps on my rods.

Chuck

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane