Well through a little more experimentation and thinking about all the comments and e-mails I got about how to keep the edge down I found that the only way so far to keep the edge down was to not do a full wrap with the edge finishing on top of the decal. The edge to rod bond is sound and does not lift (2 decals is all so far) but all the different ways I tried to get an overlap to stay did not work. The only thing I did not try was a little CA along the edge. I may try this in the future, but found I could match blank pretty close with my software and looks just fine. Thank you all for the help.

That is the way I do them, try to get the gap as small as you can, but if you put it on the bottom once the finish is on it is not that noticeable. A couple of other tips are to wipe the blank down with alcohol before you install the decal, and put the decal under a light for a while to heat it up and make it more pliable, that also helps speed up drying of the ink or any topcoats you may have sprayed on the decal.

I did all those things. After printing I let dry for overnight under a light. I then sprayed with a Matte acrylic, let dry overnight. Paper wrapped and thread covered overnight and then applied finish. Probably overkill but it worked.

Dick your last post -

Did you have success with a total overlap of the seam using holo media?

Please confirm -

If you were able to get the adhesive side of the media holo film to bond to the underlying ink layer please provide detail of how you got it to stick.

What printer? (dye based ink?)

Did you edge the media after the cut to hide the white?

I am able to overlap the white vinyl seams but not the holographic.

Bill I was not able to overlap the seams with out it lifting. I am going to continue to see if I can through some other methods at a later date. I too can overlap the white inkjet paper. I coated my label and it just seems that the adhesive just won't bond to the clear finish or when I did not coat it would not stick to the ink. CP did not help. I used Chromaseal. I am thinking maybe PG then epoxy (do not know if that will work) or CA glue along the seam.

Bill,
I often do up to 6 inch or longer holo decals with a scanned, colored abalone background and clear graphics/lettering on it
I overlap the holoshine paper slightly on long decals and haven't had a problem yet. I let dry overnight, spray with 2 coats of Krylon Fix a Tiff and apply, using the backing paper (shiny side down) over it to protect while burnishing well. I color the edge with a color "paint pen" from Michael's let it set/dry and liberally apply CP over all edges.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!