What is teh best way to get the epoxy out of the guides, I have some 2mm. and they got epoxy in them, I tried denatured alcohol, it works but thats because it was still soft, what about when they get hardened?

Scrape it out with the tip of an Xacto knife. The blade won't hurt the rings - just the opposite.

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Tom is right on about scraping it out with an exacto. It is true that the blade of the knife will not scratch the ring, but it is possible to crack a ring if you get too aggressive, been there done that. A little heat will go a long way to soften the epoxy you are trying to scrape out.

Thanks! will try that, heat it then scrape , sounds like a winner!

Be careful that you do not heat the epoxy holding the ring into the frame or you could lose the ring as well.

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Lorenzo,
As Tom suggested, heating the area, may heat the epoxy holding the guide in place.
Normally to get epoxy off of a guide, you can snap it off with an exacto knife - no heat required.

Roger

I think Bill Stevens mentioned a hot needle or something similar.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

Gonna happen if you build a lot of micro rods!

Heated fish hooks are used by many fishermen who call and ask the embarassing question!

Should be the final QC on all micro rods before they go out the door.

Check them all!

If they are plugged heating the tip of the knife will help to penetrate the plug.

Hot small sharp ice pick or large needle - heat as needed with cigarette lighter - very quick touch point of tool to epoxy plug in center of plug - when hole forms remove - do not let heated point of tool touch frame - just epoxy - hole will form quicklyright in the center when you get the penetration hole use the knife tip to finish.

I you overheat the guide ring until the ring adhesive is damaged it will turn chalk white between the ring and frame - if that happens replace guide and rewrap.

Keep it to a minimum - use smaller thread - apply minimum of low viscosity finish - be very careful at riser - brush selection very important..

It may be best if you are building a lot of micro rods to intentionally fill a ring with finish - let it get hard for three days - figure out how to clean it out without damaging the ring. There is nothing normal about cleaning finish out of a micro guide. It will not simply pop out with any knife. You can probably make some good money going to the big box stores and cleaning out plugged micro guide rings on the racks..



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 04/19/2011 06:16PM by Bill Stevens.

Bill

How much do you think I should ask per guide LOL

Bill - willierods.com

Hello Lorenzo

I use the same method as Bill Stevens, but I use a fine punch it's easer to grip, if you can't find a fine one just grind down a normal sized one till you get a fine point and a good taper.

Good Luck.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

I have modified a very fine bodkin for just this purpose. About 1/4 inch back from the tip i triangulated it, so point goes in and then an edge is there so when you spin the bodkin it removes some of the epoxy. Its fine enough to get in those two 'legs' on a 4 K series as well as into a 2 mm batson ring. It used to be a darning needle i think as it had a thread hole in the back.
It will also suddenly go through and give you random holes in your hand.
On the closed guide rings out the store issue, i like them, its a steady source of new business.

Lou,
When you use your tool - rather than using your hand or finger, shape a pine board to fit around the rod, and to back up the rod guide. That way, no more holes in your hand or finger.

Just cut a few various sized slots in a pine board with a U shaped end on the board. This will allow the board to fit nicely around the rod, and back up the guide when removing epoxy.

Take care
REW

Roger, thanks.The real trick is to remember to use it all the time!

Lou don't let the store catch you mixing finish during your visits!

Also, leave the finish in the K riser hole - it is there for a purpose. It adds almost 10 pounds to the pull test.

Size/mass of tool for hot removal. I am extremely cautious not to get the heat sink size of the tool large enough to heat the ring and frame.

We could save a lot of embarassment if we moved the QC check point to one hour on the dryer instead of a phone call from the user..

Bill,
thanks for the K series riser tip. I had 2 come back as they went loose, may be the problem was me being over fussy!
I recently went to PG on all micros i tie on and have been happy so far. 6 coats of PG (no CP at all) and that micro is staying where you put it! Of course you best be sure where you put it is where you want it.