Will a 3M Super Fine Sanding Pad work to "scuff" the epoxy finish prior to the final coat?
I'm assuming it dulls the finish, that is now quite glossy...........does the final coat come out glossy as well?

yes.

You can also use 600 to 1000 wet-dry sandpaper and get good resukts. Make sure you wipe it clean with whatever before last coat.

Do not wipe it with a solvent after scuffing, however.

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Tom,
Why do you suggest to NOT wipe it down with solvent after scuffing?

Roger

Because proper surface prep for a water-break-free surface requires that the procedure be: 1. clean. 2. scuff.

Any wiping of the surface with a solvent after the scuffing process does two things - it removes the slight static charge imparted by scuffing (Scotchbrite) and it can contaminate the surface.

Slight dust left from the scuffing process will not interfere with the bonding of an adhesive or finish. If you're worried about it, just knock it off with a soft brush, but do not wipe the surface with a solvent.

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Can you clean it with Iso Alcohol?

First yes. But nothing after you scuff it. It's just no necessary and causes more problems than it solves.

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I did a very small section of a butt wrap, and it is "cloudy" next to the bright finish of the portion that wasn't "scuffed"........mystifying to me how a coat on top of that is going to be bright and shiny, showing the full color of the thread beneath.

It will be just as bright and shiny - because the shine comes from the top coat, not the surface underneath it.

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The "scratches" that you applied with the pad are actually illusions, to an extent. The reason they appear dull and white ... optical refraction. You have altered the way the light is directed after striking the surface - it no longer comes straight back, appearing shiny. Instead the light is going off at the angles created by the micro-scratches. Don't worry, it will shine right up like a new penny when the next coat of finish is applied.

Jim,
Perfect explanation!!!
mikeb

Home Town,Gretna VA

Steven,

All will be well.

I just scuffed, ( using an emory board ) a small lump caused by the rod coming out of the dryer with out my knowledge. The area scuffed is over a decal. i have no problem doing this as i know it will be as good as never being scuffed.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

Of course your advice was all excellent. Final coat on and I'm very pleased with it, though I can't wait to make my next rod and do it all better. Posted a picture of the butt grip, which is the first that I have done. Had built a rod in a great class with Al Goldberg, but no decorative grip and he was kind enough to do the finishing for us. 2 coats of CP, 3 coats of Aftcote and I'm hooked.......Thanks for a great site.

Steven

I don't understand this process? I thought that the scuffing was to prepare the blank for a "water break free" surface prior to gluing a reel seat or handle and the scuffed part of the blank would then be covered up. Are you refering to scuffing & coating the entire blank? Thanks



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/04/2011 03:57PM by Dave Wylie.

Dave: Not scuffing/coating entire blank. Only scuffed the butt wrap area, ferrule wrap and guide wraps after the 2d coat of finish and before the 3rd and final coat.

Steven