I have a problem with rods falling out of the lathe chuck, it's a PacBay lathe with the upgraded aluminum chuck. In wrapping mode I must stop several times during each guide to reposition and retighten the but in the chuck. Now I'm a novice so my wrapping speeds are SLOW.
In drying mode, after applying the finish if I leave the rod for more than a few minutes I will return to find the rod but has worked its way out of the chuck.
If I'm in the free spool mode (no "O" ring drive ) as I try to do decorative butt wraps turning by hand I still must reposition the butt frequently.
I've tried adjusting the three rod supports as level as possible, tilted them up and tilted them down, same results.
It doesn't matter what shape the butt is in, EVA, Hypalon, aluminum gimbals (these I tried wrapping in masking tape to get a better purchase) or bare glass, the butts still walk out. I've cleaned and repositioned the rubber jaw covers.
Help ! Do I have a defective chuck, am I doing something not obviously stupid, should I start saving my pennies for a Renzetti?
Thank you,
Bob

Trying to securely check a rigid item can be difficult.

I would wait and install the butt cap until after the rod is finished. This will allow you to insert a scrap piece of rod blank into the rod butt, snugly, and then use a fairly good sized mashing tape bushing on the other end of the scrap piece so that you can put a good amount of chucking power on the bushing.

..........

Mr. Liegel,
Please send me an email at info@fishpacbay.com and I'd be happy to provide you with some assistance.

-The Batson TEAM
BatsonEnterprises.com

I had the same problem and I don't think it's exclusive to Pac Bay. A while back someone posted on using rubberbands to solve this . I now leave the butt cap off and put a rubber band snugly on either the blank or a piece of scrap in the rod butt. I found the thick 1/4" wide ones solved the problem for me. One warning: if the band is uneven, the rod may not spin true. So if you are going to turn cork/eva on the rod it may be an issue.

Here is what I did to solve the issue I was having

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

I had the same problem with a rod that had a ferrule for an aluminum butt, I tried the rubber bands and it helped a little but did not completely solve the problem so I wrapped the ferrule with masking tape with one wrap reversed with sticky side out. Problem solved.
Bob

G'Day Robert

I had the same problem with my Alps wrapper . My solution was to make sure the rod was laying parallel to the bed ( I use a laser beam for this ) & then I wrap 2 rubber bands joined together around the blank & anchor them around the back of the chuck . This has solved my problem completely

Regards Baz

I had asked this same question to the Pac Bay rep at ICRBE. He recommended a few wraps of masking tape around the blank to give the chuck something to bite into

Robert:
[www.fishpacbay.com]

Do you have both the convex as well as the concave liners for the jaws?

If you don't get both sets of jaw liners.

Then, with the concave jaws in place, take about 3 or 4 layers of masking tape over the jaws and liners. This will further cushion the jaws and allow for variations in the runout of the rod and keep the rod in the chuck.

Good luck
Roger

Raymond,
I initially tried the same thing as you have here. i.e. a layer of cork tape on the chuck. Although it helped a great deal, it didn't eliminate the problem.

The next thing that I did was to use my round disk sander to sand a concave impression into each lathe chuck. I used a caliper with frequent chucks to insure that all of the sanding depressions were equal. then, after completing the sanding, I had to do some tweaking sanding to get the blank to track true with the depressions sanded into the jaws. Again, this helped even more than just the bare jaws, or the jaw covers that came with the chuck.
But, it still didn't eliminte the problem 100 % of the time. Then, I added 3 layers of masking tape to the jaw faces with the depressions sanded into the faces of the jaws, and this have given me 100% hookup to the handles without having to worry about the handle coming loose.

If, you can do as Tom suggested, i..e use a shaft or similar material inserted into the center of the blank, without a butt cap in place is really the very best way to insure that the handle will be stable solid and have 100% true runout. If you have a completed rod, with the butt cap in place, this of course is not possible.

Take care
REW

Newbie to the pacbay wrapper. Had the same problem, changed to the concave covers, leveled rod to bed chucked it up (rod with butt cap) and ran at about 1500 rpm for 4 min. all was well. IMPORTANT for rod to be level with chuck .

Kern Davis, Lady Lake Fl.

Kern.... where did you get the concave covers from? I'd rather go that route than all the quick fixes with limited success I've read about.
Thanks,
Jeff Davis

Dan,
I may have been one of the people that used the flat surgical tubing. What I do is snug up the chuck on the end of the rod as tightly as possible and then wrap the surgical tubing very tightly around the jaws of the chuck. On the last turn of the surgical tubing, I insert my finger and then insert the butt of the surgical tubing under my finger. I haven't had a problem since I started using the flat 1/2" surgical tubing. I tested this at top speed and there is no "walking" of the rod out of the chuck.

Mike Blomme

Jeff,
Any pac bay supplier should be able to get the concave chuck covers for you. They are a relatively new addtion to the chuck and work very very well.
Roger

Jeff, i purchased my wrapper from Donart at the expo, they come with 2 sets of covers.

Kern Davis, Lady Lake Fl.