A rod i am rebuilding ,a Kistler, is a personal favorite of the owner. Its fiberglass tip and graphite butt section gives it an action he loves for crank baiting.
Unfortunately, the owners' storage and transport methods have given the blank a severe kink in the top 6 inches
I was wondering if splinting it to three pieces of straight wood or metal and then heating it to about boiling water temp would reduce or eliminate the kink or is it like that forever?
Anyone have success with straightening fiberglass tipped blanks?
As the kink is to the left i have also considered Heating the reel seat until the epoxy lets go,and turning that through 90 degrees so i am dealing with just a very tip up situation. But all the decal writing will then be out of line, not keen to get that off and replaced.

Lou,
Anything is possible, but the simple answer is - NO - unless you are really fortunate.
One of the side issues of doing a heating process on any type resin after it has cured, is what happens to the resin and its strength. In essence, not good things.

So, if you are willing to jink the blank if it fails, you can certainly try. But I am guessing that you would likely have to get it hotter than what the 212 of boiling water would do for the blank. And I am also guessing that the difference between success and failure is a few degrees of temperature, and I have no idea what that temperature might be.

Good luck
Roger

P.S.
Several of the new MHX blanks have just such a blank composition for crank bait rods and make excellent rods for such an application. These blanks are very reasonably priced and might be an option.

I wouldn't do it.

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AD

If the warped portion is glass, then you have a shot. Simply place the rod in a position, either by leaning or loading, where the current warp is reversed to the other side and leave for some period of time, checking every few days to see if it has returned to straight. Some heat may accelerate the process, but I'd settle for putting the rod in the attic or someplace like that rather than attempting to heat the rod by artificial means.

The one problem with this, is that under use it may return to the previous set.

...............

I feared that was the case:I will turn the blank through 90 degrees.
hey unless you ask you never know if somebody has not worked out a way to do it!
Tom.: the warped portion is in the glass, i tried it for a week with duct tape holding it in the opposite direction, some old yellow pages as weight.. Did not work so that is why i thought heat may help. Just glad i showed him what he had done before he left the rod with me.
If i had not taken off the guides already i would be walking away from this.
People do strange things to their rods.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/11/2011 10:44AM by Lou Auret.

It may be a little work. How about repositioning the guides and reelseat. To me it is the next best thing. The reelseat well be the hardest

Good Wraps Bob

I had a similar problem with a Duckett “Micro Magic” rod that I won in a drawing. The rod had a very pronounced bend. I ended up completely stripping off all the components (including paint) and rebuilding (w/Fuji 3.5’s) and orienting the curve up (belly down). Although the bend is still there, it is far less noticeable. It turned out to be a very nice rod….and very light (2.35 oz).

That is probably the only thing you can do
Strip it down and put the bend up with the guides on the bottom ??

Bill - willierods.com

No matter where you place the guides you will have to reposition the reelseat

Good Wraps Bob