I have been looking for motors to build a dryer and an epoxy mixer. Have looked high and low, just about to give up and found this ( [www.surpluscenter.com] )
Would anyone venture to give me an opinion?

Yes, that will work just fine for both applications.

Rock On!
Thanks

So well that I'm going to buy a couple just to have on hand!

ME TOO!

You guys better hurry up, they only have 675 left!

anyone have any luck finding the shaft couplers to fit? i got a few of these and the shaft couplers are so-so
[www.herbach.com]

Regards,
-Justin

Jerrfey,
You might want to check out a motor like this one:

[www.herbach.com]

Basically a very similar motor with the very big exception is that this motor has a very substantial shaft on to which you can mount a coupler and a chuck.

With the motor that you have selected, you really don't have much of a shaft. The shaft that is on this motor is a plastic shaft that will really not support a chuck. Rather, this motor that you have selected is really a microwave motor that is designed to have a gear mounted on the end, which in turns spins a microwave turntable.

Good luck
Roger

Jeffrey,
To make a nice rod drying chuck, you can simply use a pvc butt cap of about 2 inches in diameter. Find a piece of pve pipe which will fit over the outside of the butt cap, with just a slight amount of clearance.
Then, use a piece of neoprene with about a 1/2 inch hole cut into it. Stretch the neoprene over the end of the pvc cap, centering the hole. Then, slip the piece of pvc pipe over the neoprene to hold the neoprene tight on the cap.

To make a coupler, simply use a piece of 1/4 inch threaded aluminum coupler. Drill a 1/4 inch hole in the center of the pvc cap and a short 1/4 inch screw to screw the butt cap to the aluminum coupler.

To connect the coupler to the motor shaft, first insure that the end opposite from the 1/4 inch screw has been drilled for a nice tight fit on the motor shaft.
Then, drill two small hole in the outside of the coupler on the motor end and thread each hole for a set screw, that can be tightened down on the motor shaft.

Insert the set screws, slip the couple onto the motor shaft and the chuck will be set.

Before doing the chuck attachment, make a t-shaped motor mount out of a material that you find convenient to work with. Mount the motor on the t-shaped mount that will allow the center of the dryer chuck to be at the correct height for your dryer rod rests.
Of course, you will also have generated an AC cord with clips on the end to connect the cord to the motor.

Connect the AC cord to the motor, attach the motor to the mounting t-block, attach the dryer chuck to the motor and you are set to go.

Take care
Roger

P.S.
Here is an example of a Flex Coat commercial dryer chuck.

As mentioned above, you can essentially make the same chuck for about $2.

Take care
Roger

[www.anglersworkshop.com]

Be sure the motor you buy rotates in the right direction for you , if you plan to use it for finishing wraps or other finishing work. I bought one on @#$%& a few years ago, and luckily it reverses its direction of rotation when you unplug then replug the juice to it. If it went CCW shaft end, it would be wrong for me.

Michael,
Remember for drying, you can always flit the rod end to end if the motor is running in the wrong direction.
i.e. if you like to finish with the rod turning one way, and have the rod inserted into a motor mounted chuck and find that the rod is turning in the wrong direction, simply put the motor at the other end of the bench and the rod will then be rotating in the right direction.

Roger

use a piece of brass or aluminum square tubing rod jb welded to that motor. It gets HOT enough to loosen up the bond of rod bond.

If I remember right, that motor didnt last all that long and had very little torque to dry heavier rods. I went through 3 or 4 of them prior to either them dying or the shaft becoming unusable after several attempts to reattach a longer shaft. I'm pretty sure they also will swap direction or the 40rpm motor did I had after these, one of those did.

If these are the same motors I remember, which I hope they are not, you will have a tough time with them. I dont like to be the bearer of bad news, but at the same time, I'd rather see you be cautious instead of end up with a big mess of finish on a nice rod which happened to me a few times.

Sean,
Generally speaking most of the timing motors shown above are just fine with respect to heat.
However, if you use one of the low rpm - shaded pole motors, you are right, they get hotter than a pistol.

I do use a couple of shaded pole motors for drying motors as backup, but ONLY with a high speed fan, blowing cooling air onto the motor.

The overall best solution, if you want to use a heavier and more powerful Ac motor for heavier rods, is to use a Capacitor start motor, rather than a shaded pole motor.

The Capacitor start motors run nice and cool, have plenty of power and will last a very long time.

Take care
Roger
p.s.
A couple of years ago, I found a supplier of low rpm shaded pole motors and I was going to build a multi motor dryer. So, I bought a dozen of these motors. After receiving them, they looked fine, so I decided to give one a test.
I put it on a piece of foam, on top of a plastic topped work table, plugged it in, and let it go. I didn't come back to check on it for about 4 hours. The motor was still turning fine, after metlting through the foam, and through the plastic top of the work table. I suppose that the motor was running at several hundred degrees.
I didn't realize it at the time when I ordered the motors that they were shaded pole motors. Fortunately, I called the supplier and they took all of the motors back and gave me a full refund. If you use shaded pole motors, either run them only in intermittent operation, or put a lot of air across the motor to keep it cool.

Roger, Awesome idea on building the dryer chuck! Would you by chance have a photo you could post/link of the dryer you describe? I am interested in building one but am not sute I understand the PVC chuck config, especially and how the neoprene works.