I tried the spatula technique on applying finish, the thing is, is that when I stopped the dyer to wipe off excess epoxy, when it saged, by the time I got to the last guide the first guide already started to sag again, so, is there a waiting time before I start to try to wipe off the excess sags, or am I completley doing this wrong, ant help on this would be great!

I use a manual turning technique, which basically means I use a hand to turn and a hand to apply the epoxy. I coat each guide, then I go back and start by wiping the brush clean and use it to wick the extra epoxy off, Every so often I turn the rod 180', wait a minute or two, then if any epoxy is sagging, I use the brush to wipe it off. I spend about two hours hand turning, the time increasing as the epoxy cures. the library has a couple of articles on this, here is a link [www.rodbuilding.org] . John

I'm missing something - why are you applying excess epoxy? The instant you let the finish sag, you've got a problem.

...............

Lorenzo,
I just use an inexpensive throw away brush. I apply finish at a high rate of speed, about 100 rpm or so. As needed, I will stop the lathe to apply finish to the guide feet etc.

Then, after finishing the application, which takes about 2-3 minutes for all of the guides, I will transfer the rod to the slow rpm dryer. Then, I will hit each guide with the heat gun to thin the finish and allow it to nicely flow out, as well as to eliminate any possible bubbles that might have popped up. Generally, there is a bit of sagging going on with the addition of the heat and the thinnner finish. I keep the mixing cup under the guide that I am working on, and if a sag occurs, I simply dab it off with the brush and move on to the next guide.

I tried the spatuala method on several rods, before going back to the throw away brush. I think I spend about 5 cents a brush, when I buy them in quantities of 500. I generally use one brush for every one or two rods. So, it is not a bad addition to the price of each rod. i.e. 5 added cents for shop supplies on the build.

Some folks have good luck with a spatula, but I never mastered it and I get excellent results that are easy to obtain with the disposable brush.

Take care
Roger

p.s.
The main reason that I use the disposable brush is so that I don't have to clean an expensive brush. Also, I really didn't find any advantage at all to using a very expensive brush for finish appliction.

Take care
Roger

Roger, I tried a heat gun once to fix a spot on a rod that was in the dryer. Someone touched it. When I heated it with a heat gun I noticed several wisps of dust that the gun picked up in the air and blew onto the finish. It may have been a fluke, but I never do that anymore.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

Heat guns are a NO_NO for that reason. I would have used a alcohol lamp or torch

Good Wraps Bob

You're right Tom now that I think of it, maybe I am putting to much epoxy on, I will try to not put on so much next time, I did finally get the epoxy right, I finally passed the alcohol lamp on them and they turned out alot better, so next time, I will not put a heavy load on the spatula, and see how that works out.

Hi Lorenzo

I made myself a rod turning jig using a rotisserie motor out of an industrial chicken cooker. It turns at 2rpm which appears ideal with which to apply epoxy finishers. I apply the epoxy with a brush and I've never had a sagging problem. Additionally, the finish I use (Classic Rod Coat) rarely presents bubbling problems, but if this does occur, my wife's hair dryer, used on low heat and low speed provides the solution.

Cheers,
Dick Dangerfield
Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia

Why do you have sag. ?

Are you applying too much epoxy. ?

Or are you trying to get the very thinnest saturation.??

Paul.

I fish therefore I am.
www.hookeduprods.com

Chuck,
Just be sure that your shop is free of dust, and that you turn on the heat gun away from the rod before you go to applying any heat to the rod. I use it on virtually every rod and have never had an issue.

This is another reason, that I do NO dirty work - i.e. I do no sanding turning, or any other dust raising work in the same building that I do my rod wrapping and coating and gluing. Since I can do the "dirty" work in another building, why run the risk of bringing in excess dust into the wrapping and coating building.

But that is why this is a wonderful occupation. Everone has different choices to do the same job.

Several of my rod building associates, use pocket butane lighters for the same purpose and have excellent results.

Other builders use alchol lamps with good results.

I have seen folks that have tried to use either candles or matches, or common lighters - with not good results due to the yellow flame and the smoke and black deposits that get onto the rod and finish.

Take care and thanks for the thoughts.

Roger

I do exactly as Roger does, right down to the cheap brushes. I used to use a spatula, but hated how it bounced over the guide foot. So I went to a brush on guides and spatula on wraps (dec wraps, ferrule, etc.) that had no guide feet. Then one day I tried just the brush on a dozen samples I had for a customer, liked it, and never went back. Kevin, from Angler's Envy, also has a good series of videos on Youtube and one deals with applying finish, which also influenced the way I do it. He uses a torch instead of a heat gun (like a small propane torch, not alcohol) but I think it would take some practice to do that way. I would probably burn the epoxy, thread, rod blank, and maybe my house down with that, but it works for him.

I think the biggest thing, no matter what method you use to apply epoxy, is practice. Buy a cheapo blank or find an old rod and wrap a bunch of thread on it, then epoxy it. Rinse and Repeat. I agree with Tom K especially about the less you mess with it the better your results will be.

Matt Smith
Greensboro, NC

For years I used to have my rod turning when I applied finishes. Then I discovered Tom's way. Tom's way was much faster and the finish just disappeared in to the blank , no ridges or bumps.. Work of cautions when using a flame or any heat, to close the finish will crystallize and flash off or you can ruin your blank. When I use external heat (torch or gun) I place my hand in front, pretending my hand is the blank, I just want to feel the warmth, no burning heat. Keep the heat moving back an-forth while the rod is rotating. globs well form at the bottom of the wrap wick those off . Remember this is a one shot deal! A second trip with a flam is not recommended. Practice first

Good Wraps Bob

I put my finish on with high speed. After all are coated I then stop the turner, Then i do the TK 180 turn. When i think it is all off, I then start the turner again.

Works for me.

Bill - willierods.com

I put my finish on with high speed. After all are coated I then stop the turner, Then i do the TK 180 turn. When i think it is all off, I then start the turner again.

Works for me. The faster turning also helps to get straighter edges on the wraps.

Bill - willierods.com