I've heard of thining epoxy with acetone. Is there a ratio that is used or drops per ounce guide line?

Bad idea Ron.
If you need thinner epoxy, it is really a better idea to use that has the right thickness.

Acetone will work to some degree, but the issue is that you may have problems with entrapped epoxy in the finish as a result of it not evaporating before the epoxy cures.

Epoxy comes in all sorts of different thickness for different applications. Buy the type epoxy you need for the best job.

I have seen too often when folks mix any type of solvent - or thinner - in an epoxy, you end up with an epoxy that remains soft and does not harden correctly.

Roger

Ron your e-mail is hidden

Bill - willierods.com

Tip #12:
For the rod builder who likes an extra thin coating on rod wraps, there are three ways to get a thin finish. Use a stiff brush which will spread the Flex Coat evenly and thinly over the wrap. Heating will also thin the finish. Thinning with a solvent such as acetone or epoxy thinner also works. Between 1 and 4 drops of solvent per 6cc mix of epoxy is recommended.


This is directly off the FlexCoat website. Flexcoat is a sponsor on the left. They also show how to thin the finish in their DVD "How We Do It".

Even though this comes from the FlexCoat site, if I wanted a thinner finish I would use the FC lite, if you like the FC products. To me the finish is the last step. You've put some good time and effort into wrapping. I don't want to do anything extra to the finish. Too many chances of causing more problems. If you read the tutorials on this site you'll find that most errors in finish come from adding something extra to the process - brushing a little too much, heating a little too much, spending too much time applying the finish, etc. Like Tom always says - all finishes work well IF you follow the mfr's instructions. Simply mix it well, apply it quickly in a thin coat, and leave it alone. Then apply another thin coat if you need to. The only choice I make is either turning the rod by hand or putting it directly onto the dryer.

Good luck.

Todd

I use mid-temperature lacquer thinner. If a hot day it is set in about 4-6 hours. Never really timed it But ruffly it is hard to the touch in about 8-10 hours.

Always hardened never had a problem in years.

just be careful

Bill - willierods.com

I never quite understood the point of thinning If thinner is what is wanted, use a lite version or simply apply less. The minute you alter the chemistry of a product you chance changing the results.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

It hardens quick and I never have seen any thing happen with any clear coat

Have you ??

Bill - willierods.com

Not a bad idea at all. When thinning the acetone, put part A in the cup, add a few drops of acetone or denatured alcohol and mix it thoroughly. Add part B and mix thoroughly and apply. Excellent penetration is achieved by doing this and also there are very very few bubbles because the penetration gets all air out of the tunnels and fills them with finish.

You want to have a thin finish, I certainly would run away from Flex coat.

Kevin Knox
ANGLER'S ENVY CUSTOM RODS
QUEEN ANNE, MD 21657
#_#_#_#_#
www.anglersenvy.com

Thanks guys for all the input. I'm obviously new at this. I purchased a kit and it had the high build in it so I'm stuck with it for now. I think I would prefer the lite but not sure until I''ve tried it. I was more concerned with the mix hardening before I finished all the wraps. I guess I need to work faster but I've only done complete rod and it started to get pretty thick by the time I got to the final two guides.
Great site......can't wait till my first build!

I have tried Acetone but it just did not do it for me Just me I guess. Then again I don't like acetone.

Bill - willierods.com

Acetone, alcohol, lacquer thinner all dissipate through evaporation. Epoxy hardens through a reaction process. There is always the possibility that the two processes will create problems when combined! IMO not worth the risk when at the final stage of completing a build!

After mixing, pour your epoxy on aluminium foil. It will add a few minutes before it starts to set up.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

I have found using Acetone with FC retards drying time. When I have got stuck and all I have is high build FC I use a bubble buster or a Butane torch. Be extremely careful when using heat, to much will cause a flash off and the stuff will instantly crystallize. I know some use a blow dryer, but that can blow dust .

Good Wraps Bob

Most production companies and many custom rod builders follow the procedurers established and reccommended by Flexcoat for the mixing and application of two part epoxy systems.

This is a tried and proven procedure that allows rodbuilders to obtain the desired appearance and durability of thread surfaces covered with epoxy resins.

Read this very carefully and you will see the way many use acetone..

Mix and apply finish properly and you will not have to flame.

[www.flexcoat.com]

Make your own choise. Go to home depot and get mid-temp thinner and acetone Get some finish and experiment with it

It is the only way you can know for sure !!!!!

Bill - willierods.com

I can see that there are a lot of different ways to go about this. I now use the aluminum pans that Mudhole sells so maybe this will give me a little more time. I'm not trying to get a thinner epoxy (per say) just more working time, until I get comfortable and faster applying the finish. Thanks again for all the advice, I can see this is where one needs to go for information.....glad I signed up. Ron

Ron flowers Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I can see that there are a lot of different ways
> to go about this. I now use the aluminum pans that
> Mudhole sells so maybe this will give me a little
> more time. I'm not trying to get a thinner epoxy
> (per say) just more working time, until I get
> comfortable and faster applying the finish. Thanks
> again for all the advice, I can see this is where
> one needs to go for information.....glad I signed
> up. Ron


Your epoxy will be thinner and will be fine. Just try my method above and you will be fine.

Good luck.

Kevin

Kevin Knox
ANGLER'S ENVY CUSTOM RODS
QUEEN ANNE, MD 21657
#_#_#_#_#
www.anglersenvy.com

Speed in finishing requires only that you let the epoxy do its job. It should not take more than perhaps 10 to 20 seconds to coat a guide wrap. Load your brush, hold it above the wrap, lower the brush just to the surface of the brush, then rotate the rod underneath it one revolution. Reload the brush (if needed) move over and repeat. Then get away from that wrap and do not bother it again.

Builders spend far too much time, brushing, prodding and poking, trying to get the epoxy to do what it will do on its own if only they would leave it alone.

Try a wide flat, soft hair brush, instead of a small round brush. This also speeds the process and keeps you from having to "brush" the epoxy.

..............

Ron,
If you are uncomfortable in working too fast, and if you aren't comfortable working with a thinnner finish, simply work in smaller batches.
If necessary, mix one batch per each guide.

Tom is correct however, normally you should spend no more than about two minutes total to do a complete guide finish on a typical 8 guide rod. i.e. 10-15 seconds per guide.

I use my power wrapper to appy finish. For the bulk of the guide wrap and edges, I have the rod spinning very quickly. But, when necessary, the wrapper can instantly stop the rod, so that you can get the rod in and around the foot of the guide that is generally necessary.

If I am using a finish that has a working time of 5 minutes, I can generally get 2-3 rods coated, before having to worry about having too thick a finish for nice flowing of the finish.

But, each person needs to work at a pace that is comforatable for him.

In spite of the comments about using various types of thinners or dilluants for guide finish, I still maintain the thought that added chemicals should NOT be added to a wrap finish. If you want a thinner finish, start with a thinner finish as developed by the manufacturers chemists.

I am not saying that thinners and diluants won't retard the drying and or increase the set time of a guide finish. I just don't advocate its use because of the potential change that MAY result from the addition of added chemical to the finish.


If you use acetone, laquer thinner and it works for you, and you are pleased with the finish, hardness of the finish, durablitly of the finish - go for it and enjoy. I would just rather not use such chemicals.

Roger

Roger

What kind of wrap finish has a 5 minute working time?