Hello,

I am still new to rod building and learning. I came across an old rod that I figure would be fun to re build. I have a few questions though

1. The blank lenght is 5' 3". It originally had a wooden butt about 14" in length. It is pretty stiff. What would it be good for? I am thinking of tuna troller?
2. I used a razor to scrape/cut old finish and guides off. How do I bring back the luster before wrapping new guides on it? It will need to be sanded first to remove old glue etc.
3. It also has faded spots where the old guides sat. Any way to fix that? The blank is brown in color.

I figure if all else fails, it's a good practice rod. Any advise you guys can give is really appreciated. thank you,

Brad

Brad,
When working with an old rod as you have indicated above, I use a heat gun with GENTLE heat to aid in the guide wrap, guide and finish removal process.
Then, use a razor blade held at right angles to the blank to SCRAPE away - NOT CUT the old finish from the blank.
Normally on an older rod as the type with which you are working, I will remove 100 % of the finish.
Then, I use progressivly finer grades of sandpaper used parallel tol the lenght of the rod to completly clean up the old finish. The last few grads of fine - 600 - 1000 grit paper, I use wet. i.e. I wet sand the blank with the very fine papr.

The end result, after rinsing off the blank is a nice semi polished graphite surface. I seldom ever put any thing back on the surface after cleanining it up and semi polishing it this way with the very fine sandpaper.

You are left with a semi gloss graphite finish which needs lettle upkeep, doesn't scracth or chip and is long lasting.

If the end result is a very very stiff rod, due to its inherent principles, you can always use if for something like you pointed out or simply as a practice rod.

Take care
Roger

To "remove" the old finsih (not epoxy but painted finish) I have been using a "citrus" stripper with very good results. I apply it, let it sit for a little while then use a very fine pad and wood pocile stick to remove the finish. Comes off with out problem. I normaly let the stripper sit for a "one beer" time or so.

Sounds like a solid glass with detachable butt section. I would say if it is - a tuna, I would not be afraid to use it on any big fish. If solid glass those things are ny on indestructible

You probably better off stripping it down complete and repaint with one or two coats of permagloss or LumiSeal on it let it sit a week plus them wrap. A nice aluminum detachable butt and you should have a killer for most any thing in salt. . Or clean up the wood butt.

Bill - willierods.com

Eric Viburs Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> To "remove" the old finsih (not epoxy but painted
> finish) I have been using a "citrus" stripper with
> very good results. I apply it, let it sit for a
> little while then use a very fine pad and wood
> pocile stick to remove the finish. Comes off with
> out problem. I normaly let the stripper sit for a
> "one beer" time or so.

I also measure time in Beer Units. My brother comes over for a 2 beer visit or a 3 beer visit. :)

Are they 8 or 16 oz cans. there is a difference in time drinking ?? D ooooo

Bill - willierods.com

Good thing you guys are not home brewers. I keep home brew beer in 5 gal kegs on tap. Never run out.

Guys,

Thanks for all the great advice. I will keep you posted with progress. Also it is a hollow blank, does that mean it is graphite? Any other suggestions is definately welcomed too.

P.S.
I too measure in beer units : )

Guys,

Thanks for all the great advice. I will keep you posted with progress. Also it is a hollow blank, does that mean it is graphite? Any other suggestions is definately welcomed too.

P.S.
I too measure in beer units : )

If it's graphite, the blank will be charcoal grey underneath any paint or finish.

Tubular blanks can be and have been made from any number of different materials.

..............

Wish I could post a pic and show you what it looks like.

I believe the picts posted will go to the last page of the category it is in.

Then you can put a link here to the picture.

Bill - willierods.com

Photo upload is working again. It was on the blink yesterday but I used it today. Yeah, send a pic if you can.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

Ok, how do I post a pic?

here scroll down to registering and posting picts [rodbuilding.org]

Bill - willierods.com

Here is the link for the pic

Let me know what you think and thanks for the help

Brad

[www.rodbuilding.org]

I think that is an old Silaflex (browning). Probably 60's vintage.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Graphite or Fiberglass?

Fiberglass. Graphite didn't come along until much later. There isn't much info on anything other than fly rods. In fly rods the Perfexion series was a budget offering and was dropped by 1964. It looks to have been designed by a guy that used to design for conolon (pacific laminates employee). These were respected names back then and browning's medallion series sold for huge money by anyone's standards.

I can read Perfexion and model 410. Can you make out any of the rest?

If it were mine, and I wanted to fish it, I'd tie a string to the tip top and a mop bucket to the string. I'd put it in a rod holder at a slight angle, like 20 degrees, and add water. The rod will start to bend and at a certain point it will seem to want to stop bending. Stop if you start hearing creeking noises. I'd weigh the amount of water in the bucket and call that my maximum drag setting. Generally one would use line 2 to 4 times that.

If you know guns you know anything browning from the early 60's is still a serviceable item. Of course forged and machined steel ages a little better than fiberglass so don't get carried away.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Wow, thats some very good insight. Unfortunately, I cannot read anymore of the label. I will give the bucket a try too. Thanks for the useful info Russ.