I am having an issue with Big bubbles forming on the edge of my decals. I am using white waterproof vinyl with the edges colored with the acrylic paint marker recommended by Bill Stevens. The finish is D2. When I apply the finish it is perfectly bubble free, but when I check it after a while there is usually one huge or a group a tiny bubbles that have formed where the seam is. I am pressing pretty hard on the decal and I roll a piece of rod blank across it to try to get all the edges down, but it never fails that I get a bubble or two. any recommendations?

Thanks,

Andy

maybe you should call or e-mail Bill

I'm thinking it should have been sealed first with say CP two coats, then finish.

Don't know if there is enough finish on to sand and re-coat ????? Sounds like air.

Bill - willierods.com

I remember Bill saying that CP is not needed, and I would prefer not to have to use it. It is definitely air and not a fisheye. I just trim the area with a razor blade and put my second coat on an all is good. It is not that big of a deal. I am just trying to lessen the hassle of having to trim out the bubble.

A bubble is round - a fish eye looks like a moon crater.

Bill - willierods.com

Understood and it is a hassle - I expect to use two flow coats.

When you apply the decal the adhesive backing will "outgas". Bobby Feazel suggests waiting for at least two hours before applying the first coat of finish. Peel off backing, position, press in place using the backing you peeled off or a soft paper towell, press firmly around all edges, give it some time to allow "whatever" to seep out from under the decal then press again. Edging with a water based color preserver is an option that may help if you are careless about edge pressing.

If you are edging the decal with a Sharpie to color the thickness change over to an acrylic paint stick - the solvent in the Sharpie will dissolve the adhesive around the edge and allow air to be trapped by the finish.

This is one of the things that will have to be tended when applying finish. You can minimize the problem for giving the finish a little time to thicken before applying with a good soft brush

A couple more things that I do.

If it is a matte finish on the blank I recommend a coat of epoxy prior to placing your decal. I have found that on the matte blanks you will experience a slight haziness around the edge of the decal. If a initial coat of epoxy is not used. the initial coat is not needed on a blank with a gloss finish.

For vinyl and peel and stick decals use a hard roller (wallpaper seam roller from hardware store) or a Brayer from a art supply store, both are just a couple of dollars. Use the roller to apply pressure to seat the decal. You can press fairly hard with the roller but extreme pressure is not needed. the roller allows you to get localized pressure. And because you are rolling across the decal instead of sliding you do not need to worry about smudging the ink. If you have a concern, use a couple pieces of printer paper to cover your decal while applying pressure. If you don't have a roller I recommend using paper to cover your decal to getthe pressure you need.

I also would not recommend using flame in the decal area. If you apply to much heat with flame I have found that it will lift the edges of the decal again causing bubbles.


Mike

Decals no matter who or what they are made of/by give rod builders a hassle.

To stop the hassle FOREVER on EVERY decal, only one thing must be done: use a couple light coats of Krylon Fixatif in a spray can. It's available at most all craft stores and you'll NEVER again worry about any decal.

Mask off areas you do not want over spray on, and give the decal area 1 light coat, another light coat, and a medium coat of the fixatif allowing each coat to dry a few minutes before re-coating. Let final coat dry and apply finish. I usually let the fixatif dry for about an hour at least, over night is perfect. One can is about $4 and lasts a VERY long time. I haven't had a decal/finish issue since starting to use it a few years ago.

You cant beat it.

DR

I have never used decals but am about too. Do you apply the Fixatif to the rod first, as you have described, and then apply the decal and then the rod finish, or are you saying that these coats of Fixatif go on top of the decal after it has been applied and then epoxy on top of that. Thanks.

Clinton

Check out Decal Connection. They have instructions.

Bill - willierods.com

I did not find anything there about Fixatif. Moreover, the technical help page on that web site is not working.

Clinton

Bill Stevens said:
Edging with a water based color preserver is an option that may help if you are careless about edge pressing.

DR
Krylon Fixatif in a spray can. It's available at most all craft stores and you'll NEVER again worry about any decal

Bill - willierods.com

One other thing that may fall through the cracks - cutting method is very important.

Starts and stops with a pair of scissors will leave a little "indent" - take a magnifier and take a look - I have an idea this is a source for the "bubble" sites due to backing and media separation points on the cutting edge.

How many use this: [www.swamplandtackle.com]

The fixatif goes on AFTER you apply the decal. Think of it as a clear "sealer" that goes over the decal and around the edges of the decal, this holds down any adhesive issues and contaminants that may be on the decal or around it's edges.

DO NOT apply fixatif to your rod blank and then apply the decal over the fixatif.

Again, craft stores are where to buy. There's no tutorial on it, doesn't need to be, it's simple....just lightly spray it on the decal and around the decal edges, let dry.

DR