What is a typical Bass flipping stick handle measure? I am measuring from end of rod to the trigger. I am thinking somewhere around 12 inches. Am I correct?

End of rod to end of seat. Put the seat on and go out and flip. If need be put some guides on and reel . If this is your rod you build it to how it feels to you. If a customer what is he using and what does he want or the rod he uses what he does not like about it . It is all personal preference.

Bill - willierods.com

Andy you may want to think this through in a slightly different manner. If you are actually talking about a flipping stick the first thing to do is differentiate exactly what you mean - there are actual differences in the rods used for flipping - many may use the term pitching and flipping interchangably.

Maybe someone will take on the task of explaining the difference in pitching and flipping - it may help.

Balance point conversations are never specific enough on Internet Forums:

The main fault is there is no right for all rods.

How about this set of circumstances:

I had the priviledge of refurbishing a few rods for an Elite.

Flip Stick - Top Elite Angler - Huge Beast of a Rod - Eight Feet - Rear Grip Length 9.0 inches (butt to back of reel seat) -

Feels tip quite heavy with no balance installed -

I made the mistake in commenting on the length of the rear grip - and the apparent tip weight - asked if he wanted the rods balanced!

His comment "I fish for a living and the reason is money! Only when fish are safely in the boat can I relax - leave the rod exactly as is".

The reason the rod is built that way is fish control during the period of time that the big ones escape - close to boat, head shaking and darting this way and that - he puts the tip of the rod on the fishy's nose and does not want the rear grip length hanging up on this rainwear, coats or body.

If I told you the rod was also spiral wrapped do you know who I am talking about?

I am in no position to tell him how to balance a rod - he simply does not care!

Bill Stevens



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/09/2010 03:45PM by Bill Stevens.

By the way the easiest way to tell the difference between flipping and pitching.

When flipping the reel spool does not turn - limits distance to approximately 20 - 22 feet

When pitching the reel spool rotates -

i start at 10" and adjust from there.

Regards,
-Justin

Here are some other options. Gary Klein has a full length foregrip on his flipping rod and grips the rod in front of the reel while working his bait and retrieving. This would give the rod better balance and make the rear grip length less important. My personal preference is to have the rear grip (I use split grips) hit the "fat" part of my forearm when palming the reel. With the rod supported this way the rod becomes an extension of the arm and I feel I have more power to fight the fish and adjust to any sudden moves. I do think 10" is a good starting point!!

Andy my current rod is a flippping/jigging/worming rod...haha...Its a 7'6'' H Fast.
Ive never built a rod of this caliber before....I found the balance point to be at a 13'' grip length......I did a mock up and hated that length!!...It felt akward in a casting motion...My customer is use to 10'' length grips mind you......I finally found that 12'' is damn near pefect...That 1'' inch made a huge difference....A touch tip heavy but as Bill Stevens mentioned,he's not going to care to much about perfect balance....You be surprised at how many anglers I meet that dont even notice.

I feel this will balance out better after epoxing the tiger wrap between the main the rear grips (split grips)

Handle length truely is a personal prefference...You just have to play till it feels right.

Now if he's only planning on using this for flipping....A little tip heavy could be a good thing!!

I agree with Bill 10" is a good starting point, but I am tall (6'6") and have long arms. And for this type of rod I definitely don't care if it is a little tip heavy because a bit shorter handle will avoid hanging up on loose clothing. Any rod that I am using for short casts, flipping, skipping, roll casts... I want a shorter handle.

I put my elbow on the counter, stand the rod up next to my arm and if the front of the reel seat is below my wrist I'm probably happy. This may not work for every one but for me it works well.

Take a look at the current Bass Master magazine. Read the article on rods and blank action written by Gary Klein. Flip sticks with moderate action with lower modulus materials improve the chances of getting the big ones safely in the boat. Too fast of an action and when the head shake or sideways dart happens, close to the boat, the blank lock up point contributes to pulled hooks. The blank and the angler skill acts as the shock adsorber

Walker
"Now if he's only planning on using this for flipping....A little tip heavy could be a good thing!!"

I'm totally convinced that the opposite of that statement is true.
But I am willing to listen.
Would you mind explaining at what point, whether in flipping, or any slack line tip up bass fishing technique “being tip heavy could be a good thing"?

Steve Gardner Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Walker
> "Now if he's only planning on using this for
> flipping....A little tip heavy could be a good
> thing!!"
>
> I'm totally convinced that the opposite of that
> statement is true.
> But I am willing to listen.
> Would you mind explaining at what point, whether
> in flipping, or any slack line tip up bass fishing
> technique “being tip heavy could be a good
> thing"?

Well in flipping, You start tip up true,but on the swinging motion why not let the tip fall more on its own? Does that make sense?
It was just a thought ,not a statement.
I also said a ''little'' tip heavy

Walker I understand what you are saying.
But there is much more to consider then the falling aspect.
The pendulum effect and added weight of the bait will assist in pulling down the blank on the "fall”. Then release that pull down effect once you let it free fall in the water

But if you rod is tip heavy then you have to exert more energy to pull the rod’s tip back up again.
Opposed a tip neutral or tip light setup, that will almost raise it self. Do this a 1000 times a day flipping and it adds up to much less physical work equating to much less fatigue.
Less fatigue allows for better concentration to what the fish are doing at the other end of the line.


Another aspect to consider
[rodbuilding.org]

Also when using lighter weighted baits a tip heavy rod can actually out run the drop rate of the bait allowing for excess slack in the line which again will cause a decrease in bite detection.

Steve Gardner Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Walker I understand what you are saying.
> But there is much more to consider then the
> falling aspect.
> The pendulum effect and added weight of the bait
> will assist in pulling down the blank on the
> "fall”. Then release that pull down effect once
> you let it free fall in the water
>
> But if you rod is tip heavy then you have to exert
> more energy to pull the rod’s tip back up again.
>
> Opposed a tip neutral or tip light setup, that
> will almost raise it self. Do this a 1000 times a
> day flipping and it adds up to much less physical
> work equating to much less fatigue.
> Less fatigue allows for better concentration to
> what the fish are doing at the other end of the
> line.
>
>
> Another aspect to consider
> [rodbuilding.org]
> g-269438
>
> Also when using lighter weighted baits a tip heavy
> rod can actually out run the drop rate of the bait
> allowing for excess slack in the line which again
> will cause a decrease in bite detection.


Steve I do appreciate you sharing that with me.....Very nicely written,and I completely agree.