Re: Rod writting finish?
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: March 05, 2010 09:05PM
Larry,
I use testers model paint all of the time for lettering my rods.
I let the paint dry for at least 30 minutes. In some cases, I let it dry for 15 minutes and it also worked just fine.
The key about applying any sort of finish that has been painted with testors paint is to NOT brush the area, and to not let the finish flow very much. i.e. apply the finish just above the writing, have the thin finish flow down over the writing and don't touch the finish - where the writing is - with a brush.
Also, make sure that the finish is thin enough and that the excess finish in the area of the writing has thinned out sufficiently, so that as the rod rotates and dries, it doesn't continue to flow around the rod, as is the case with an excess amount of fresh thin finish.
If you spend much time on the blank, where the writing has been applied, or if you let thin finish continue to flow around the rod, it will tend to mix with the paint and remove it from the blank.
I generally am in a hurry to get the finish applied as soon as the lettering is done, so this method works very well. I would expect that if you let the wrting dry overnight to get the writing harder, it would be less susceptable to the effects of the finish and brush.
However, using the methods mentioned above, I get a perfect set of lettering along with a perfect finish.
Before learning this technique, I will admit that I did end up having to remove finish, relettering, and reapplying finish for the lettering area due to the same problem of which you speak.
Take care
Roger
