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Decals 2
Posted by:
Paul Lindsey
(---.dsl.okcyok.swbell.net)
Date: February 06, 2010 01:08PM
I am sorry to bother everyone but i really need help. I did my decal and put a ink fixative on then the micro sol. I waited 24 hours for my epoxy dried and the i put some micro set on the epoxy ed part socked my decal for a small time and put it on the blank, One problem it does not show on my blank its like its not there.
Please some one tell me what i am doing wrong. I have read the graphics site and think i understand it but i guess not. Help brothers and sisters i will be forever in your debt Paul Paul@soonercustomrod.com Re: Decals 2
Posted by:
David Teague
(---.asm.bellsouth.net)
Date: February 06, 2010 01:43PM
For me it was a bit of trial and error till I got it right, at first I had the same problems as you, even with the white decal media, the way I fixed the problem was to use white or silver/ chrome colored thread and placing the decal on top of it. Painting the blank those colors in that area where the decal will be, will also work, thread is my choice though. Because when you get the decal on and tighten it up with a little heat, the graphic looks like it was woven. I like that effect. Also make sure you change the settings on your printer to photo quality/ best quality.
Dave URC rods Re: Decals 2
Posted by:
Ron Asker
(---.lew.clearwire-dns.net)
Date: February 06, 2010 01:57PM
At what point did you apply micro sol? Your post reads as if you applied it after the fixative and then waited 24 hours? Micro sol is a setting solution and is to be used AFTER the decal has been wetted and applied to the rod.
Here is what I do with waterslides after printing the decal: Sray with krylon crystal clear gloss acrylic. I use 3 coats waiting at least an hour between coats--usually several hours. Cut the decal close to the image using sharp scissors. Wet the decal by immersing in a cup of water. Soak just until the decal starts to slide around. If you soak too long the adhesive will basically wash off. If you dont soak it long enough it will be difficult to remove the decal from the backing. Wet the surface of the blank lightly then apply a bit of microsol. Apply the decal by holding it close to the blank and slide it off of the backing. The microsol that you applied in the previous step will aid in allowing you to position the decal. Make sure you pull the decal into position..never try to push it into place. After the decal is in place lightly brush a little bit of microsol onto it. After this application of microsol do not touch the surface of the decal with your fingers! Lightly dry the decal with a kleenex...use very light pressure. Smooth it out as you dry being careful to not move the decal. Dry the area around the decal, making sure there are no bubbles or water. Brush a small amount of microSET over the decal and allow it to set for a few minutes and press down on it lightly with a paper towel. This step causes the decal to shrink a little and the edges should dissapear. It may take you a few attempts. Keep practicing! Here is a shot of the last waterslide I did back in Novermber [www.rodbuilding.org] David, do you apply your decal directly to the thread wraps with no epoxy? Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 02/06/2010 02:11PM by Ron Asker. Re: Decals 2
Posted by:
Lance Dupre
(---.hsd1.la.comcast.net)
Date: February 06, 2010 02:20PM
If you used regular printer ink on a waterslide decal paper and you applied it to a dark blank your lettering WILL disappear. Lance Re: Decals 2
Posted by:
Larry Damore
(---.hsd1.il.comcast.net)
Date: February 06, 2010 03:11PM
Computer printers have NO white ink. Computers use the white of the paper to make colors. Computer printers will not work on clear decal paper. Re: Decals 2
Posted by:
justin keithley
(---.dhcp.aldl.mi.charter.com)
Date: February 06, 2010 03:54PM
as to what others have said, about all you can do with an ink jet and clear waterslide paper is to either paint the blank white and then apply the decal over that or use all black/gray tones in the image and then apply the decal of a light colored wrap or paint. if you use a wrap, put finish on it first.
also - you're putting to much thought into it. Print it, hit the decal with 2-3 coats of krylon matte acrylic sealer spray. Soak it in water slide it onto the painted blank. cover with epoxy once its dry. I've done it this way a hundred times with no problems. just make sure the matte spray has a chance to dry - which takes maybe an hour. If i were spending 5$ per decal having them custom ordered, i would be more cautious (i say that but i don't personally). do a few on a scrap blank - its easy. Regards, -Justin Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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