I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2024 ICRBE EXPO
CCS Database
Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
American Grips Piscari
American Tackle
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
BackCreek Custom Rods
BatsonRainshadowALPS
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
HFF Custom Rods
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Palmarius Rods
REC Components
RodBuilders Warehouse
RodHouse France
RodMaker Magazine
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Stryker Rods & Blanks
TackleZoom
The Rod Room
The FlySpoke Shop
USAmadefactory.com
Utmost Enterprises
VooDoo Rods

Decals 2
Posted by: Paul Lindsey (---.dsl.okcyok.swbell.net)
Date: February 06, 2010 01:08PM

I am sorry to bother everyone but i really need help. I did my decal and put a ink fixative on then the micro sol. I waited 24 hours for my epoxy dried and the i put some micro set on the epoxy ed part socked my decal for a small time and put it on the blank, One problem it does not show on my blank its like its not there.
Please some one tell me what i am doing wrong. I have read the graphics site and think i understand it but i guess not. Help brothers and sisters i will be forever in your debt
Paul

Paul@soonercustomrod.com

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Decals 2
Posted by: David Teague (---.asm.bellsouth.net)
Date: February 06, 2010 01:43PM

For me it was a bit of trial and error till I got it right, at first I had the same problems as you, even with the white decal media, the way I fixed the problem was to use white or silver/ chrome colored thread and placing the decal on top of it. Painting the blank those colors in that area where the decal will be, will also work, thread is my choice though. Because when you get the decal on and tighten it up with a little heat, the graphic looks like it was woven. I like that effect. Also make sure you change the settings on your printer to photo quality/ best quality.


Dave
URC rods

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Decals 2
Posted by: Ron Asker (---.lew.clearwire-dns.net)
Date: February 06, 2010 01:57PM

At what point did you apply micro sol? Your post reads as if you applied it after the fixative and then waited 24 hours? Micro sol is a setting solution and is to be used AFTER the decal has been wetted and applied to the rod.

Here is what I do with waterslides after printing the decal:

Sray with krylon crystal clear gloss acrylic. I use 3 coats waiting at least an hour between coats--usually several hours.

Cut the decal close to the image using sharp scissors.

Wet the decal by immersing in a cup of water. Soak just until the decal starts to slide around. If you soak too long the adhesive will basically wash off. If you dont soak it long enough it will be difficult to remove the decal from the backing.

Wet the surface of the blank lightly then apply a bit of microsol.

Apply the decal by holding it close to the blank and slide it off of the backing. The microsol that you applied in the previous step will aid in allowing you to position the decal. Make sure you pull the decal into position..never try to push it into place.


After the decal is in place lightly brush a little bit of microsol onto it. After this application of microsol do not touch the surface of the decal with your fingers!

Lightly dry the decal with a kleenex...use very light pressure. Smooth it out as you dry being careful to not move the decal. Dry the area around the decal, making sure there are no bubbles or water.

Brush a small amount of microSET over the decal and allow it to set for a few minutes and press down on it lightly with a paper towel. This step causes the decal to shrink a little and the edges should dissapear.


It may take you a few attempts. Keep practicing!

Here is a shot of the last waterslide I did back in Novermber


[www.rodbuilding.org]


David, do you apply your decal directly to the thread wraps with no epoxy?



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 02/06/2010 02:11PM by Ron Asker.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Decals 2
Posted by: Lance Dupre (---.hsd1.la.comcast.net)
Date: February 06, 2010 02:20PM

If you used regular printer ink on a waterslide decal paper and you applied it to a dark blank your lettering WILL disappear.

Lance

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Decals 2
Posted by: Larry Damore (---.hsd1.il.comcast.net)
Date: February 06, 2010 03:11PM

Computer printers have NO white ink. Computers use the white of the paper to make colors. Computer printers will not work on clear decal paper.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Decals 2
Posted by: justin keithley (---.dhcp.aldl.mi.charter.com)
Date: February 06, 2010 03:54PM

as to what others have said, about all you can do with an ink jet and clear waterslide paper is to either paint the blank white and then apply the decal over that or use all black/gray tones in the image and then apply the decal of a light colored wrap or paint. if you use a wrap, put finish on it first.

also - you're putting to much thought into it. Print it, hit the decal with 2-3 coats of krylon matte acrylic sealer spray. Soak it in water slide it onto the painted blank. cover with epoxy once its dry. I've done it this way a hundred times with no problems. just make sure the matte spray has a chance to dry - which takes maybe an hour. If i were spending 5$ per decal having them custom ordered, i would be more cautious (i say that but i don't personally). do a few on a scrap blank - its easy.

Regards,
-Justin

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster