And have been thinking about building one, both because I might could save some money and enjoy the process of building and fishing one of my own making.
A modest rod is all I need for the first build--just something to get it done and to learn with.
Other than kits and such that I've googled, I don't have a clue.

Do you folks have any suggestions of what to do or what to avoid?

I've been stretching my 4 wt. to fish native brookies on small streams in NH--so that's what duty the 2 wt. will get.

Thank you very much ahead of time.

Check out the blanks available from any of the sponsors on the left. All are great to deal with. If you are planning on building a rod to save yourself some money, then my advice is to find another hobby! LOL!

For your dollar you can't beat the quality or price on any of the Batson products (Rainshadow or Forecast). But there are plenty of other choices.

Good luck!

I built a 2wt couple years ago and it's been sitting in a corner unused (I'll take offers). I pick it up and wiggle it now and then (don't take that statement out of context!).

a. 2wt blanks are hard to find, or choices are slim.
b. 2wt lines are also not that common.
c. a little breeze on the stream, and you'll wish you had your 4wt at hand.

I'll bet the advice on this board will be to build a 4wt to start (maybe a shorter, slower rod than your current 4, and you can under line it). Dozens of choices. Also, I would buy a kit so you can work on the build process and techniques first. Start mixing and matching components later. I guarantee, once you get started, this will not be the last rod you build.

Just my opinion, but if you start your rodbuilding career on a 2-wt, your career will be short. There is obviously a learning curve in all facets, but the securing and wrapping of the guides on that tip section will tax every ounce of your patience. My first build was a 7-weight and it took me forever on that size blank to wrap the tip section guides. Unless you want to practice by wrapping guides on "al dente" spaghetti noodles, I would go with at least a 4-weight.

I'm not sure the tip diameter of most 2-weights and most 4-weights is going to be all that different. At least not enough to make much difference. If you want the 2, get it. Or split the difference and get a 3 - they're a little more common and 3-weight lines are more readily available.

...........

For a first build I would recommend a kit.
Either the Am Tackle Matrix from Mud Hole or the Cabela's IM7or PT+.
Each has 6'6" 2 weights at a reasonable price to get your feet wet.
Both also have 4 weights available.
Leave the Sage TXL for your second build.

Good luck
Eugene Moore

I have a 2 wt. I use it about once every 4 years. So, in that respect, I can't honestly believe that anyone "needs" a 2 wt. But, then again I don't fish in brush choked little North Eastern trout streams. Even my 2 wt. at 8' 0" is probably too long for those conditions.

If I were to build your little 2 wt. and take into consideration that this is your first build, I'd use about a 6.5 to 7 foot blank from Batson (probably the cheaper RX6) and a little downlocking reel seat (I'm partial the the REC's aluminums for smaller lighter weight flyrods - they're lighter in weight, aesthetically pleasing, but pricy), standard cork - cigar, western, or reverse half wells grip. One size 10 double foot Strip Guide (Fuji alconite concept), and 7 chrome double foot snakes (all size 1/0's) - good for crashing through the brush without worrying about your guides hanging up and being ripped out (until you've learned how to do the Forhan locking wrap for single foot guides). On a rod this small, I'd also consider using 4 to 6 coats of Permagloss as the thread coating. This will be alot easier to use than epoxy for a first-time builder, and will help keep the overall weight down on the final product.

Kits seem to be recommended alot on here. They're OK for that first time build. But you're essentially re-creating something that is so readily available off the shelf. I would rather recommend that you look at these off the shelf factory models, and ask yourself what you would like to change about them to produce a "custom" tool for your specific needs. Then do some research here to see how you might go about achieving that.

I have a 2wt, a 6'6" Batson Forecast 4 piece. I use it about once a year, but it is pretty fun. I did not use a kit because they all had snake guides and I wanted single foot guides. This rod handles a three weight line just fine if not better than a two. These blanks are very inexpensive. You don't need any fancy tools to build a rod, a rat tail file will probably work for this grip (I think the blank's butt is about 1/4"). Go for it!

I am with Greg on this. I built that same rod and love it. I fish for small browns and rainbows on tight little streams that are overgrown, perfect rod for these situations. After I got it built I actually spooled a reel with an old five weight line, but in reverse. So the belly of the line is near the arbor. I know this is unorthodox, but I was just playing with it while I decided what line to order. The thing cast so well that I never bothered to order two weight line. Guys on here regularly say that they cast anything from a two thru four weight line on this blank depending on the distance they are fishing.

I ended giving that rod to a friend who uses it all the time in the same situations. Now I have an excuse to build another one and I just started it yesterday. If you want a simple build, consider getting the single piece handle with slip rings from Jann's Net craft. (vendor on the left). I used that on my first build and that was very nice and simple. This is my favorite rod to date.

Wow! Thanks for all of the responses and for a few things to think about.
I certainly like the idea of a kit for simplicity and yet I know that I'd enjoy the process of learning enough (or not) to customize a rod.
Regarding a 3 wt--my thought was that it would not be different enough from my medium action 4 wt.
Maybe.
6'6" is about what I had in mind and that Batson may just be the ticket.
As far as guides, handles, seats and wrappings; I haven't a clue at this point.
Using Permagloss instead of epoxy sounds like wisdom.
Downlocking-? What and why?

I suggest getting a book and a video,I have Tom Kirkman's book and I used to have L. A. Garcia's video, and get some info from free tutorials online. Google Al Campbell's graphite rod building. Buy from a sponsor, the blank manufacturers might help you with guide spacing and choosing guides. I just do it for a hobby. It is a fun challenge to try my best to do a good job, but it's not the end of the world if it doesn't look perfect when it's done.

John,

Slip rings will work, but if you are consistently "crashing" through the brush then you might periodically work the reel loose from the slip rings. That is why I suggested a locking reel seat with a threaded barrel assembly to firmly secure your reel. An uplocking reel seat may or may not balance well with such a short flyrod if you're using double foot snake guides (twice the wraps and finish to add weight to the tip vs. single foot wraps) , so I think you may be better off with a downlocking seat for this application.

Got it, Torin. Thank you. I understand what you are saying.

I've been looking at the Batson catalog and have started to piece together an order.
Rod blank--F662-4
Handle Kit--HK1-fly

I've been reading about guides and I like the idea of single foot ceramic rimmed types
I haven't gotten around to reading on thread or finishing, so I have yet to do this.

I think this is going to be fun and rewarding to fish a hand made rod.
Gonna need a new reel, though.
:-)

Torin Koski Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> John,
>
> Slip rings will work, but if you are consistently
> "crashing" through the brush then you might
> periodically work the reel loose from the slip
> rings. That is why I suggested a locking reel
> seat with a threaded barrel assembly to firmly
> secure your reel. An uplocking reel seat may or
> may not balance well with such a short flyrod if
> you're using double foot snake guides (twice the
> wraps and finish to add weight to the tip vs.
> single foot wraps) , so I think you may be better
> off with a downlocking seat for this application.