I want to put a WC (winding check, not wash closet...) on an ultra-light spinning rod. It would actually go on the rear grip of a split-grip, about 7 1/2" up from the butt. The blank is a 4 wt. fly rod. Diameter of the blank, at that point is about .281". It is a "very, very, very" tight fit. Yes, I know that I can slide the grip up a tad, and eliminate any concern, but I don't want to go any higher with the rear grip/real seat assembly. Can a "very, very" tight WC cause failure? What about a "just" tight fit? Is there a recommended amount of clearance? Thanks for your help!

I am assuming your talking about a metal winding check. I think that if the fit is very very tight as you describe, and there may be a chance of you damaging the finish and or blank, that it should not be used. Even wrapping guides too tight can cmpromise the structure of a blank, and thus if you have to force the WC into place, then it;s too tight.

Just my 2 cents though.

cheers
Harold

Yes, as confirmed by the blank manufacturer a friend's rod broke clean off under the winding check. He had what he felt was a perfect fit when he built the rod, with no thread under the metal winding check.

Jeff

Can you bore it out a 1/16 or so and make it less tight?

George,
Just chuck an abrasive bit into a dremel tool and ream out the winding check, so that you can put a thread wrap on the blank, and then easily slip the check over the thread.
No issues with failure then.

I think that since you are asking the question, you already know the answer. I also expect that you simply didn't want to hear the answer.

Take care
Roger

A 1/16 is a lot - doesn't have to be that much. I would ream AND BUFF, with at least 400-600 grit wet or dry, enough material to be able to wrap a bit of size A trhread under the WC.
Herb

Thanks guys. It reamed out easily enough. I'm still puzzled, though. How does a a tight WC cause failure? Obviously, if it is forced into position, to the point of scraping the finish or denting the rod it could cause damage. But, what about one that fits perfectly, with no gap, and no undue pressure? Does the blank change shape when flexed? Does the cross-section go from round to oval?

George,
The blank will go from round to oval when flexed. However,given that its an ultralight rod,I doubt that 7 1/2" from the butt,it will be a great issue. It does create a "shear point" on the rod,however. Assuming the angler will be using 1-4# line,something else would likely give before the shear point comes into play. Unless the angler uses much heavier line and plants the butt against their tummy and really lays into the rod,I see no cause for concern. And then again, I could be mistaken.... ;)
Chuck

Chuck,
Thanks for the clarification...
...and the disclaimer! We'll see what happens the first time I tie into one of those Spinney Gold Medal trout. It's not an expensive blank; so I'll probably run 4-6# mono. If the rod snaps, I'll get to practice on another one.
George

If you take a washer, or a rigid winding check, and drop it down over a blank and allow it to come to rest, then flex the blank through that area, the blank will fail at the point where the rigid item sits.

The key when fitting checks onto your blank is to determine if the blank does much flexing that far back. You're nearly always better using a check that is a little larger than the blank OD at that point. Glue it to the face of the cork or EVA, centered of course, and stand the rod up while things dry. Any slight opening left between the check and the blank can then be filled with your butt trim or cross wrap.

................

If black will work in your designs, just use the flexible rubber/vinyl checks. When totally covered with epoxy they tend to "disappear" with a nice radius fillet that looks fine. Unless you need the metallic appearance.