I've been using a drill for a cheap lathe for sanding cork grips. It works well, but I don't have any options for sanding a grip while I't's still on a rod. Is there any options out there that would allow me to put a chuck of sorts on a drill that would be able to hold the butt end of a rod for sanding grips on the rod? My best guess would be yes, I just don't know what I'm looking for.

Scroll about 2/3 of the way down this page and look at the Flex Coat Cork Lathe --> []

The uses a tapered cone to grab the inside of the blank for turning. If you're "handy", you could probably make something similar.

Mark Griffin
[]
C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California

Thanks Mark, I've got projects that need this, one of them is partially built and that will work great for it. The other is a rod that is complete, but I put the first layer of a 3-d wrap on, and the finish over it is un-even and needs to be leveled out, unless I spin it, I feel that I'm not going to get it right before putting the over wrap on it. I may just end up threading 4 holes on a PVC end cap and using some fiber optic ST patch panel covers over the hardware to firmly grip the butt end of the rod, from there just keep tweaking the adjustments until i get it to sping centered......

A hole saw device, the one with the three adjustable prongs works. You'll have to glue some eva or rubber to each of the prongs to avoid scratching. It's very similar to the chucks used on the dryers from Batson.

Hey Andrew,
I use the FlexCoat device with a 2500rpm 3/8" drill and I do some nice stuff with it with the cork glued directly on to the blank.

I used to chuck the male ferrule directly into the chuck of the drill - protected with as many layers of blue painters tape as possible. I also taped the chuck to the blank so the chuck did not unwind itself.. Everytime I did this I held my breath - not wanting to fracture the graphite while tightening the chuck.
So I had a long conversation with Roger Seiders of Flex Coat (FC) and we worked out a fail-proof system.

The FC system has two supports. The first support goes onto the reelseat - which is why I always use round reelseats. The secong goes onto the blank 3-4" above the grip.


Everything above is the same - except that I now chuck a 3-4" stainless rod (cut from a long SS hex head bolt) with a diameter of 3/8" or 5/16" into the drill. I then build-up either the blank or the bolt with blue tape until the diameters match. Then I wrap many layers of duct-tape over both sections and run the tape up and down the bolt and blank for 3" on either side of the interface.

I then begin my turning. No chance of damaging the blank and you can turn the grip and fighting butt at the same time.

You must use duct tape. I tried all the others and they fail to hold.

Herb

slide a piece of rubber or plastic tubing over a carrage bolt and then tighten
a nut down to the tubing. As the nut tightens the tubing is sqeezed between
the bolt head and nut and the tubing OD expands. I think it's called a crusenberry mandrel

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Herb Ladenheim Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Everything above is the same - except that I now
> chuck a 3-4" stainless rod (cut from a long SS hex
> head bolt) with a diameter of 3/8" or 5/16" into
> the drill. I then build-up either the blank or
> the bolt with blue tape until the diameters
> match. Then I wrap many layers of duct-tape over
> both sections and run the tape up and down the
> bolt and blank for 3" on either side of the
> interface.
>
> I then begin my turning. No chance of damaging
> the blank and you can turn the grip and fighting
> butt at the same time.
>
> You must use duct tape. I tried all the others
> and they fail to hold.
>
> Herb



That sounds like a plan right there! I don't know why I didn't think of it like that in the first place....I've done similar things just this past weekend to ream out the old graphite blank that I'm re-using the grip on another rod(long story, took me 5 hours to get it reamed to the right taper).

Andrew,
I forgot to say that the SS rod and the end of the blank "kiss" at the interface when they line up. But I think you got the picture.
Herb

I saw this, might work

[www.adjustableclamp.com]

I had an idea of my own for this, maybe someone can make it better, cut a rubber hose that the outside diameter is about an 1/8th inch or less than the inside diameter of your rod blank. runn a 1/4 inch all thread through it and use a washer and nut on either end, tighten the top nut and it will work as a expansion plug inside the rod blank. then attach your drill... this should work...

This might work?

[www.anglersworkshop.com]

Ken, that is probably what I will build, in the meantime, I need to finish one rod and get it out the door so I can purchase more building supplies, so I'll charge the drill and work with the masking and duct tape.

When I do my handles - off the rod - I put the handle on a scrap piece of blank. In order to get it strong I glue another piece into the first . You could find a blank that fits the rod and use the drill. I made a lath like the flex coat one and it works great. Just make sure it does not get loose on ya.

Bill - willierods.com

ANDREW,

Buy this 3 jaw, self centering chuck from Batson Enterprises for $21.26. The jaws open from approximately 1/8" to 1-1/2" in diameter, and it has a 5/16" drive shaft which will fit into your Drill Motor chuck.

This 3 jaw, self centering chuck is far superior to any of the other suggestions.

Click on the following link and scroll to the bottom of the page to see the chuck.

[www.batsonenterprises.com]

Rena (Too bad it doesn't come in the color PINK)

That's the one. It's called a dial saw, adjustable to cut holes 1" to 2 1/2". Available at any hardware store. No tape, hose,clamps, pipe, screws. Just a nut to tighten.

Hey - guys with the chuck ideas.
They are designed and built for wrapping or drying.
No way will they hold a rod at 2500 rpm.
Also, you cannot shape the fighting butt if the chuck is attached to the butt.
Andrew,
If you do decide to use such a chuck, make sure that you are wearing a lexan face mask.
Herb



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/29/2009 01:30PM by Herb Ladenheim.

Rena:
You talking about that Pac Bay chuck, that Batson has in there catalog. I got one. Pay shipping, you can have it. been in a box for about 3 years. got it from Mud Hole. my drill lath works better !

Bill - willierods.com

Rena,

Does the chuck on the Batson site handle high RPM's?

Andrew,
It is very simple.
Continue to use your drill chuck and spin your complete rod.

Chuck in a solid piece of rod, or blank material. If you are lucky enough to have a blank that is as large or larger than the blank, you can use coarse sandpaper to sand a taper on the solid blank to match the inner diameter of the blank under construction.

Simply don't put the butt cap on the rod, before doing your handle shaping. That will leave you an open end in the blank to insert the solid blank material that is chucked into your drill chuck.

------
Although I have many different machinest chucks, I still use this method about 95% of the time. There is no wobble, and no marking on the outside of the rod at all.
The only time that I will use the machinest chuck is when I have a completely built up rod and I need to clean up the handle just a bit.

Good luck
Roger

p.s.
If you want to get a decent chuck, you can get one from Taig, for about $60 which works very very well. It can be had with the soft large aluminum jaws which are the ideal combination for the use in rod building.



[www.taigtools.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/30/2009 12:21AM by roger wilson.

Thanks Roger. I will start doing that for future builds, I have one build that I'm re-using a handle a reel seat from another rod, I reamed the old graphite blank out of the handle and I'll glue it on the new blank and turn it with the old piece of blank. Do you think that some tool dip over the old blank will hold well enough to turn the blank?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/30/2009 09:16AM by Andrew Metzger.