Nothing new under the sun, and a search using the topic header brought up no results. Generic reel seats, or named ones are of a length
that accomodates every reel foot on the planet. Ergo: an 18mm trigger seat from Fuji, after a small baitcaster's let in and snugged down, will show about an inch of threads before the cork starts.

I find this unattractive, and reduce the threads showing to about half that. Just barely enough to let the reel in, and tighten. I used to saw off the excess threads, but I found another way. I now ream the butting cork to a size that actually uses the threads of the reel seat to seat itself.

I install the reel seat, insert a reel, screw down the cork ring until the threads are covered and still permitting the reel to come away.
I then remove the ring, noting its position, paint the first 2 threads with RodBond, and put the ring back. Checking to see that the reel will still come away. Adjustment can be taken by moving the ring up or down on the threads. The RB won't be cured till the next day.

Then the rest of the foregrip is bonded and the rod goes to the lathe for shaping.

I suppose if one was careful, one could do a prefinished grip this way, but I don't use those. I always have trouble with the last ring being oversized from the file job, and have to resort to a winding check. I don't use those things.

(edits were typos. no spelczech)



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/08/2009 11:20AM by Ken Driedger.

Very clever--good idea.

Neat idea as long as you are going to have a foregrip, I like it.