I'm currently doing a rebuild on a Loomis STFR 1601. I'm having difficulty removing the last bit of epoxy "film" from the blank. The process I've used so far is to score the epoxy and wraps on top of the guide foot, peel off as much epoxy and thread as I can with my finger nail, use a steamer to get the stubborn stuff off, which still leaves me with discolored section of the blank where the previous guide was. My main reason for the rebuild is to change the guide placement, so I can't hide the discolored parts of the blank. I feel it needs a light sanding to to blend those areas, but I'm reluctant to use any abrasives on the blank. Maybe a solvent would be better? This is my first attempt at this and would appreciate any suggestions you may have. Thanks in advance.

Justin

I just did a rebuild for a buddy of mine and I had the same problem. I think the "film" you are seeing may be CP. I used Goo Gone and it worked fairly well for me. There are still visible spots where the guides used to sit, but they are more noticable to me than anyone else.

jeremy

You may try a gray scuff pad on the entire blank, then a wipe down of denatured alcohol, once dry 2 quick coats of permagloss should do the trip to bring back just about anything. I did this exact thing on an older st croix I just rebuilt and there are only slight disoloration marks left from rust where the old guides used to sit.

Loomis rods are the most difficult rebuilds in my opinion because of the epoxy they use and the fact that they paint or pigment many of their blanks, which comes off when using solvents. Their grips and reel seats are also very difficult. Use a heat gun on low for a short time to soften the epoxy finish.

Justin, I've found that the discoloration is usually due to the sun not fading the blank under the wraps. The blank may even be faded more on one side, usually the side with the crankbait reel handle because it is laid with that side up on the boat deck. Scuffing the more colored side with gray scotch brite may blend the areas somewhat, and permagloss will restore the gloss and protect the blank, but if the blank is colored, it may just be faded to the point that only a repaint or recolor will match up everything again.

Thanks for your comments! With this being a natural matte finish blank, do i need to apply permagloss after a light scuff?

Justin, no pg necessary if you don't scuff down into the fibers of the blank.

Justin,
With this being the matt blank, if it were my rod, I would chuck it into my lathe and use 600 wet and dry paper - used wet to give a uniform finish to the rod.
This very fine paper will even out the finish very well and leave it pretty much like it was when it came from the factory.

Of course, after using the wet and dry paper, use a good towel to rinse and wipe the blank so that it is free of any abrasives or other material.

If you don't have a lathe, simply put the blank on end in the bathtub, and use the wet and dry paper to clean up the finish, used lengthwise on the blank. It will only take a few minutes with either method.


Take care
Roger



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/30/2009 12:34AM by roger wilson.

might actually want to go higher than 600 grit if you want to follow roger's advice so you dont sand down into the fibers. 800 or 1200 automotive wet/dry used wet is about as good as you can get it.

The scotch brite followed by polishing paper (I'm thinking its comparable to the 1200 auto grit) did the trick. I can just barely see where the old guides were. Thanks again for the suggestions!