When I install blank exposed casting seats I generally install an arbor in the counter bored section of the seat (threaded end), and then drill the arbor with a FC pilot drill, and ream the whole works to fit the blank.

Problem I see with the comfort touch is if I ream the seat portion at all I'll ruin the comfort touch around the blank exposed area. Any tips for installing these???


Thanks,
Marc

The first thing I learned the hard way was to get it as tight fitting an ID on my seat as possible. Usually I'm able to get one perfectly snug enough to where I don't need any arbor or spacing.

There was one case where I needed a beefier sized one, so someone taught me to cut a very small piece of brass tubing that was just barely thicker than my blank and slip it onto the blank so it sat between the surface and the reel seat. Gave me a good base for the epoxy to grab on and I cut it small enough where the weight not a concern.

-jb

That's why I haven't used exposed seats, I'm not 100% on how to put them on and make them look right with the any arbors.

I usually go with a size smaller than I need and slowly ream to fit. This usually eliminates the need for an arbor under the threaded part of the seat. I also trim off excess threads on the seat so the lock nut is flush withthe end of te threads when a reel is mounted.

The comfort touch seat coatng will edge fray and peel if reamed - the bondi should not be broken at the window edge - use the correct size

Here is what I use to ream seats. I have them in various sizes. You can get them that will fit the taper of the blank almost exactly. I wouldn't use anything else. Smooth fast cutting action, fit right in my cordless drill, or ream by hand.
[www.industrialboys.com]

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/24/2009 03:26PM by Jay Hunt.

I use the polyurethane arbors from Flexcoat. Usually a size 16 arbor will fit inside the threaded part of a Fuji exposed reel seat (tightly), not sure about AT or Pacbay? I take the full length arbor and twist it into the front about 1/2 inch then cut that 1/2 off. Then drill it with my pilot hole drill bit and ream it to fit on the blank where it would be inside the reel seat. Then I epoxy it into the real seat and install the real seat/arbor as one unit once the epoxy has set (rod bond quick cure). I also cut the front of my threads off so the seat is shorter. I install the arbor after this has been done.

Hope this helps.

-Mike

The original poster is asking about the "comfort touch seats" with the soft coating covering the graphite shell of the seat. It is best to leave them alone or the coating will start to peel at the windows edge when reamed.

"The comfort touch seat coating will edge fray and peel if reamed - the bondi should not be broken at the window edge - use the correct size"

CORRECT Bill, and dont ask me how I know :-)

Buy the right one to fit,...... if you're worried about ordering the right one, get the supplier to fit it for you or buy TWO! and stock pile the extra.

DR

Im in the process of doing one now. I called Chase at AMTAK and told him the blank that I was using, length of the rear grip and that I wanted to use an exposed blank reelseat. He took measurements and fitted a reelseat to those measurements and the rod is turning out absolutely beautiful. Its my first exposed blank seat, and I will be doing them again! Just give him a call and he will gladly help you out, even if you are buying it from Mudhole (they are in the same building).

Kevin Knox



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/25/2009 04:47PM by kevin knox.