I just used the silver metallic media on a small diameter blank for the first time. I wrapped the decal all the way around the blank with a very small overlap. The part of the decal that was on the bottom of the overlap stuck to the blank just fine but the end that wound up on top didn't stick. I wrapped the blank with some heavy paper and put wire tie's around it and the places where the wire tie's were stuck but in between didn't. Also the ink came off on the paper. I let it dry over night and sprayed it with several coats of the clear acrylic and let that dry for several hours prior to use. I've used this a number of times on a larger diameter blank and no issues at all. Where am I going wrong here?

David Page
E-town, KY.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/14/2009 06:26PM by David Page.

For starters dump the wire ties and use a full thread wrap. That's the only way to apply clamping pressure to the entire decal.

What you're describing here sounds as if the decal would not stick to itself, or it simply pulled the acrylic film off the paper where the two ends overlapped. If the ink also came off the paper, I'd have to wonder about that particular paper.

............

I thought about the thread wrap and just hadn't tried it yet so good to know I'm on the right track there. I guess I didn't describe that well enough, the acrylic bunched up under the wire tie's and it rubbed the ink off where I cinched them down. The thread will fix that obviously. Thanks for the help Tom.

David Page
E-town, KY.

The paper itself isn't applying the clamping force - the thread does that. The paper is simply there to protect the decal surface from the thread. A few wire ties won't equally spread the force out over the entire surface.

.............

David

I don't believe you will ever have good success with the decal overlapped. At least I never have.

If you are looking for the "perfect size" decal that has non-parallel edges leaving you just a very small seam, you will need to do some precise measuring and calculatiing with an Excel spreedsheet to acheve this.

Be happy to give you a copy of mine if desired.

I find it best to under size slightly and put the gap on the bottom. No one will know. I tried an overlap after a measuring error and it was not a happy time.

Bobby,

I'd like a copy of your Excel spreadsheet, if you don't mind.

Jerry Weir

Bobby, I would like a copy of the excel spreadsheet also. I don't know if you were planning on sharing with so many. It would be greatly appreciated.

Emails sent.

Thanks Bobby

Thanks Bobby. As you know, one of the greatest benefits of subscribing to this forum is being able
to share information. Hopefully, one of these days, I will be able to share my experiences with
some one who needs help. After all, we're all here for the same reason, to learn as much as we can, experiment with some new ideas that no one else has done, and see if the fish like what we've done!

Thanks

Jerry

I would also Love a Copy.....

Anyone that saw the Mud Hole abalone instructions may have learned how to form a perfect overlay accounting for blank taper. Mark off the decal area. Put several winds of masking tape at either end of that area. Then slice the tape bands and remove them. Put them alongside the decal on each side and draw a long from the top and bottom of each. Cut on those lines and you will have a perfect decal that will wrap around your blank with the top and bottom meeting perfectly!

Barry your technique does not deal with a number of issues related to the Ink Jet Media. Proper cutting and sizing of the media while preserving the ink and edge surface requires cutting and tinting before wrap a round.

Please take a look at some of the available information concerning the cutting of the media to insure edge and ink film preservation.

[www.swamplandtackle.com]

David if you can stand the white instead of silver image it works better on smaller diameter blanks. Holo Shine would be the next choice but the background needs to be quite dark to prevent the many lines of reflection from making the surface too "busy" on small blanks.

Bobby's spread sheet is invaluable to calculate taper cuts on various blanks.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/15/2009 09:24AM by Bill Stevens.

Thanks Bill, but I am already using this technique on the decals for my wraparounds. They are coming out just fine!

John Z

You will have to unhide your email or send me one. Happy to send when received.

Bobby, Excel is something that I haven't messed with very much so any help I can get with figuring that out is very much appreciated so yes I would like the spreadsheet. Thank you once for your generosity.

Bill, I'm basically making the rod look like a beer can so I need the silver media for that metallic look. It really makes a cool background and breaks up the colors of rod nicely. I usually use the white but I wanted metallic letters and this one. So basically I'm stuck with it.

David Page
E-town, KY.

Understood! Coors or Bud Lite? Pop A Few Tops and dont worry about the edge! The real ones have seams in them too -

It would be bud light lime for this guy. Makes for interesting looking rod though.

David Page
E-town, KY.