Just curious as to what is everyone's favorite type (or shape) of cork grip? I'm about to build a 6'6" worm rod, and I need to know what type of cork grip setup would be the best. Thanks!

Split grip or full ? Personally I like a split grip on a casting rod. It lowers the heel of the casting hand which is more comfortable for me. And if I am making a long cast I like to hold the rear grip with my left hand, just a little added security.

The most comfortable split grip I have found ( other than the ones I make myself ) is sold by Swampland Tackle.
I use a template to build all my grips by. It took some time and a lot of wasted cork to make the shape I like but when I got it right I made a template from a piece of plastic.
Now, if you are building grips for someone else, you need to find out what the likes in a grip and build accordingly. If he has a rod that has a grip he likes then you are home free. You can build it exactly like that one.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

The length of the grip has a lot to do with the comfort too and it's just as dependant on the individual. On my light rods I like a split grip with the length set so that the butt will fit within the crook of my arm so that I can hold the rod tip down and "walk the dog" with just a little wrist action instead of swinging my whole arm or moving the lure too much. On the heavier rods I also like the split grip if I can aviod a real tip heavy rod; however, I have made a few with deep tiger wraps in the split that probably weights as much as a wooden handle. Whether I use a split grip or full grip on the heavier rods I do like the length to have the butt just short of my elbow, too long and it sticks out past my elbow and grabs at my clothing.

I determine the length of the grip by how the user is built and if he fishes with a lot of clothes on such as in the winter or cold months. If a guy has a lot of belly sticking out you will probably have to shorten the rear grip to accommodate that little problem.
I agree with James. Most of the time the length is just short of the elbow, laying on the big muscle of the forearm. If I'm fishing a heavy rod such as a Pitching rod, I want the longer handle for leverage. If I'm using a Jerk Bait I will bump the butt of the rod against my forearm which will be about a 9 to 9 1/4 in handle. Most of it is personal preference and how the rod will be used.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

So, I'm understanding what you all are saying about handle length being more of a subjective quality. What about the actual SHAPE of the handle? (cigar shaped, reversed half-wells, etc.)

On a split grip, the shape I have is more or less just an extension of the reelseat back, then tapering it down to the blank.

RodMaker, Volume 10 #3. The most in-depth article on any topic the magazine has ever published. This one concerns grip ergonomics. It is the single area where fishing rods are the absolute poorest.

........

Bobby,
Great question.
As Tom has said, many many handle shapes on the market - both commercial and custom leave the person fishing with the rod in bad shape.
i.e. the handle does little to help the person fish better.

In agreement with Tom, I think that the main thing to consider with a handle is to get a handle that is comfortable for the job being done.
I think it is also important to have a handle that fits the hand being used. Many handles tend to be "straight" in the area of the palm. Generally, I think that this is a mistake. Rather, there needs to be a part of the handle - call it a "swell" a ball, a "lump" or what ever to fill the palm and to provide a better grip for the hand.

I think that the part of the handle behind the location of the palm's normal position is also important.
Some folks like this area to taper off to 0 - the effect you get with a split grip.
Other folks like a brace at the back of the palm. i.e. have the rod handle swell back up behind the hand to help maintain the position of the hand on the rod handle.

After trying lots of designs, I think that the latter design is generally a better design than the former. i.e. a handle that will contain some sort of swell or ball to fill the hand for maximum control, and then some sort of brace behind the hand to help hold the hand in position on the rod.

Even when using a split grip - this is easily accomplished, by having a short reverse swell behind the hand in contrast to the continued reduction in handle size that many split grips employ.

Bottom line -

The handle shape is up to the imagination of the rod builder and shaper of the handle. Consider the use of the handle, the hand using the handle, the long and short term grip ability of the handle and any other considerations you can think of.

After you make a few thousand you will come up with the handle that seems to work best for you and your clients.

-------
Size, shape, length, front, back are all important.

Remember, it is the handle that the client is using any time that he is using your rod. Sure, nice wraps are fine - bu they are only cosmetic. Sure, tall, short big, little, round, oval, single foot, double foot guides are all placed on a rod for one purpose and one purpose only. i.e. to get the line from the reel to the end of the rod. Yes, it is up to you as the builder to use the right guide in the right place to get the line to the tip in the best way possible, to maximize cast, comfort and fish fighting ability, as well as the best rod loading capability.

However, it is the handle that is in touch with the user of the rod 100% of the time that the rod is in use. Spend the time, design effort and client consideration to get the handle right 100% of the time.

Take care
Roger

My number one selling split grip handle shape - length and diameter dictated by client's hand size.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

-----------------
AD

Alex,
I couldn't agree more. That size and shape appears to be about as perfect for most clients as one could want.

Take care
Roger

I use and prefer a shape like Alex!!!

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

The diameter and length is the most important information you need when building a grip. #1 the users hand size by the realseat. I design my casting butt grips so the well fit the hand and make a smooth transition onto the reel. The grips have small indentations so the fingers well fit comfortable. As for length this has to do with the parties arm length. Some fisher-people like it short 1/2 way down the forearm or resting in the small indentation in the elbow.

Good Wraps Bob

My most comfortable grip... [www.rodbuilding.org]

Wow! Great thread. I've not read the Article on Rodbuilding but I've been testing and trying a bunch of different shapes and came up with something ALMOST like Alex's after spending many hours examining my hand and how it holds objects and can vouch that it is very comfortable. I even have a very deep cutout for the thumb like yours. (Thought I was being original - apparently not. Difference may be that that I have two more cutout for my fingers.) The primary difference is that I'm more radical in cutting down the area behind the palm a lot more. This is a reassuring thread to let me know I'm not off the deep end....:)

Alex, how wide is your widest point on your grip? Mine is about 1.2 inch. And your narrowest point for the palm? Thanks.

Thanks,
Mo



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/23/2009 09:19PM by Mo Yang.

Cut-outs for fingers is often a mistake. I'd recommend reading the article - it is based on research done by leading bio-mechanics over the past 60 years. Of all the articles that have ever appeared in RodMaker, this is the most valuable of them all.

..................

Tom, I've not read the article but plan to.

I've thought that cut out for fingers are a bad idea because it locks one's position into a single correct position. However if the fingers can be cut so that it works but also allow multiple position, it seems like a good idea. Anyways, have to read the article.

Mo

Mo - Really I don't have an average as they are different for each client. I've had them as large as 1.35" in the swell section. I have one ready to go on a rod now that I can measure.

I've never had someone try out one of those grips and say they didn't like it though.

The important part on that shape to me is to move the palm swell portion back to about the #2 - 4 rings of cork (from the reel seat). This lets you still have a really smooth transition into the seat and fill up the palm of the hand. Basically the larger surface area lets the whole hand carry the weight of the rod and do the work.

I've had the most positive reports off this grip shape from guys skipping lures. It seems to work exceptionally well with them based on the feedback I've gotten.

I started doing this because of competition grade shotguns - most if not all have palm swells on the grip. More stable, comfortable and less tiring. Figured doing the same on a fishing rod couldn't hurt.

-----------------
AD

My grip shape is similar to Alex's also. I have a few grips built up on scrap material and let people hold different shapes and lengths to get an idea of what they are looking for....

Scott Sheets
www.smsrods.com

Scott When I was in business I did the same as you had a large verity of grip styles. Tom why are you against grooved handles
Good Wraps bob

Good Wraps Bob

I don't go off "this feels right" many times with clients. Why? That larger or smaller grip may feel really good - right now. But after an entire day holding... that may not be the case.

There are some established standards for proper dimensions based on hand size and I try to use those. A lot more folks with a lot more experience and education have figured all that out.

In my experience - grooved handles can become uncomfortable rather quickly. Also, depending on season, your fingers may be different dimensions. Ever noticed a good fitting ring will fall off your hand in the winter? In the middle of summer it has be pryed off. Not to mention if you wear gloves.

-----------------
AD