Hi Guys:
Just picked up some Tru-Oil after all I have been hereing about it here. I was wondering though, should it be stored in the frig? Just don't want it to dry out on me. Also what is the time for it to be FULLY dried, or Cured. Guess at 70 degrees?
Thanks

Bill - willierods.com

Do not peel off the foil top - just prick a hole with a pin - drops out at a time and close tight - will store a long time

Nothing under it - no alcohol - no Cork Seal - wipe on light coats and buff at spin high speed to generate heat -

It has a good shelf life. The less air that gets pack into the bottle the better. It can skin over but just poke a hole through that layer. Good point Bill--my holes in the foil are bigger than I need. Most of the time I just use my finger to apply it. I also like the way it will pop the patterns on burl cork and many woods. BTW I always water down rags that get tru oil on them and make sure all of it goes into the trash since spontaneous combustion can happen which is unlikely but possible. No I have not yet set anything on fire and hope not to do so. It will dry well even below 60 F. The directions on the bottle are pretty good. Thin coats are best and I spin it on the lathe for a while just like the article in Rodmaker.

Good idea with the hole in the foil Bill. I took mine off but will put tape , maybe duct tape on trim, then poke a hole.

How long for full cure.

I also got to play with it as a blank coating. got to see if it is flexible enough, how well it will adhere to a blank.

Even in cool temps it set about an hour. I like it !

Bill - willierods.com

What is the modulus of the wooden or cork blanks you have - It should work fine if the modulus is not too high! }>

Bill
If it would not crack as a rod coat then it seem that it could also be used as a thread finish like permagloss. I like permagloss but the shelf life is not long enough. I even had a new bottle go solid. If I buy it to have on hand I can't be certain that it will be usable. In thinking about it tru oil might not be as abrasion resistant as permagloss. Not trying to hijack the thread but this does bring up interesting possibilities.

Bill
Why do you ask about the moldulus of the blank. Are you saying if it is too flexible the tru-oil may or will crack ?

John:
I put my Permagloss into the frig after wiping off the threads on the bottle and I put the top on - snug, not real tight. I have had it in the fridg heck I think 8-12 months and it was still good to go. That is why I am probably going to try the same with this tru-oil. I take it out, poor in a cup and let it come to room temp. Some times I use it cold. Seems to set longer ? may still try Fish Sticks new stuff he has out.

Bill - willierods.com

As I think about it bamboo was varnished so flexing should not be a problem? I think tru oil is more forgiving regarding runs and setting up than the urethane. You might just have one heck of an idea there. I like the tru oil because I can get it when I need it although the local chain here in the country has not had it for a while but it is readily available. Also BLO, boiled linseed oil can be used but without the additives it is a much slower cure.

As far as Tru-oil shelf life goes, back when I was finishing gun stocks, we would put small marbles in the bottle to raise the level & minimixe the O2 in the bottle. Now there is a product that you can get from Klingspore (a sponsor at Expo) that you can dispense into the bottle that will displace the O2 & thus the Tru-oil should not skin over. CO2 would probably do the same, if you have that.
Bill

Tru-Oil is a polymerized oil, a wiping varnish, not really an actual oil-type finish at all. It sets hard and can be used to build depth, unlike actual oil finishes.

I doubt it would function very well as a blank or thread wrap coating. You'd be better off with a urethane finish, even a common exterior furniture type urethane finish.

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If tru-oil is used as a thread finish it will alligator up after a time, that is it will look like scales. this has been proven in using it on wraps for bamboo rods.