I feel like a rookie asking this question, but I guess this is what this board is all about. I have been building rods for several years, and I have never built a 2-piece rod. I now have a customer wanting a 2- piece St.Croix for trout fishing. What do I need to do, I will be ordering a 3s66ulf2, will I be required to make furrels? I want to make sure that I have a bit of a head start on this one prior to getting started. I would appreciate any input.

Thanks,
Steve

Nope, the blank is already ferruled. Just wrap the female end to prevent splitting, and the rest is just like any other rod. Nice choice of blank there: the SCIII UL's are sweet little blanks indeed.

I have a 3s56ulf2, 3s60ulf2, 3s66ulf2 and all 3 are great rods. I love the 66 though, that is a great choice. I set it up using the NGC and 4mm fujis as running guides it is awesome.

If this rod represents a big departure from what you have been doing, I offer the following suggestions:
1. Do the NGC method of sizing and locating the guides as already suggested. I also agree with the running guide suggestion. This will ensure the rod is as light and responsive as possible.
2. Find out what your customer expects regarding the handle and the distance from the reel to the butt. To do this I would recommend cobbling a split grip onto the blank, having the guides sized and located and temporarily attached, and demonstrating the rod to the customer. I think you are going to want a shorter reel to butt distance on the rod than on normal rods. You and the customer can try out different dimensions so you get it right in the eyes of the customer.
3. Consider no cork in front of the reel seat, and demonstrate this. If I were doing the rod I would use an uplocking reel seat to put the threads to the rear leaving the front clean, then put an epoxy ramp or very small piece of cork in front of the reel seat for cosmetics and to allow the hand to contact the blank. Keep in mind that this is not a two handed rod. Epoxy ramps are great for this and they are comfortable. You also need very little cork behind the reel seat, and a minimal butt grip.
4. Shorten the reel seat so you don't have extra threads that will never be used on it. This will lighten it a little and make it look much better proportioned. All reel seats have way more threads than necessary just to be sure they can handle any reel foot that might be out there. the size reel to be used on this rod will have a fairly short foot. If you do the NGC right, you will be designing the rod around the specific reel, and you should do that for the reel seat as well as the guides.

IMHO

Thankyou all for your input, I feel much better now going into this. I hope some day I can return the favor.

Thanks,
Steve

Steve Bro
(BroCo Custom Rods)

Your customer will love the blank. I've made 3 rods using that blank and have had nothing but praise for them. I liked them so much I made one for myself. As for guides all have been made with #6 running guides and 3 Fuji BYAG guides to the choker. I know this seems like alot of guides but the rod performs well and all of my testing shows it works. I'm going to go to the micro guides on the next build....

Micro is kinda what I was thinking. I built this same guy a St.Croix casting rod with micros on it and it was unbelievable. I at least plan on test the micros on this build. Thanks again for your input.

Steve

Steve Bro
(BroCo Custom Rods)

I used the 3s56ulf2 to build a backcountry spinning rod for my brother-in-law. Great Blank!. I cut down a Matrix Vetre handle to basically the length of his hand and balanced it using the same reel he was going to use with it. The blank felt longer than it actually was, since the handle was shortened. I've got pictures of it with a UL reel (before final finishing.) The handle wasn't tough to modify at all....just make sure you leave clearances for the internal parts.

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