After seeing some of JP's Acryllic inserts, I am wondering if we could sand & epoxy regular finish like ThreadMaster to the same glossy shine? I just put the finial coat of finish on a wrap, and there is a bristle from the brush I used sticking out, which I can easily slice out with a razor blade, but then I'd have to put anadditional coat of finish on. Does anyone know if I used the same high grit sandpaper (the pads) used on Acryllic (down to 12000) on epoxy, if I would be able to get away with not having to put an additional coat of finish on?

I've got a strong suspicion that you're gonna try it and let us know.

clyde

I've got a strong suspicion that you're gonna try it and let us know.

clyde

Epoxy cannot be brought back up to a mirror shine by sanding and buffing.

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Billy,

I tried it a number of years ago on Flex Coat High Build and it didn't work for me but I haven't tried buffing out Threadmaster

I have a strong suspicion you're going to try it and let us know.

MJ

NERB that types with a bar of Ivory soap in his mouth.

Tom is right Billy.

I can get most of the finish's to shine back up JUST FINE, the problem is they dont look WET like the original finish does. Once buffed, you get a "buffed look" shine.

Lets put finish without buffing it at a 10.0 shine rating being the best, and sanded finish being a "0".

if you sand and buff the finish back up to a shine you'll get a 9.0 rating on the return shine factor. That may be "ok" for a repair on on older rod and such things like that, but if you're seeing fresh finish and comparing it to buffed on the same rod, you'll be disappointed with the buffed look.

DR

Billy,

You may try using some of the polish that is used on the acryllics. That MAY bring the shine back up to the wet look.

Bill in WV

"if you're seeing fresh finish and comparing it to buffed on the same rod, you'll be disappointed with the buffed look"

THat's kind of what I wanted to know. I've got enough stuff laying around here now which I can experiment with, but I haven't picked up that plastics sanding kit yet. My dreams have been shattered, lol.

I might be satisfied at some point with the 9.0 vs the 10 on the shine scale, since it's next to impossible to truly get a flat finish on a long Dec WRap , but if you could sand and sand and sand, then buff it up - it could be absolutely perfect. There's always a "value" put on importance, everyone rather see a really shiny glossy finish, which has waves in it when sighted down teh rod (in reality nobody does this), rathe than a perfectly flat finish which is a little less bright. I'm going to look into this and see what I can com eup with, as for now I'll recoat this wrap.

Thanks.

give it a try. i dont think you will like the results. you may get decent results by wet sanding it to keep any heat down. the rod finish epoxies are not nearly as hard as the acrylics. i hope you get it to work, but i have doubts. prove me wrong

Not for nothing, but, try this -- yea I know don't thin your finish. But put one maybe two coats on . If thick one. Let it dry for at least two three days in a warm area. Wet sand with at least 400 -500 paper. Lots of water.
Yea I know, now three CC of finish add 10 - DROPS of a good quality medium lacquer thinner.After the base coat of finish, just like a car paint job ! As long as there are no imperfections, the thinned coat of finish - SHINES LIKE A MIRROR. Make it like WATER it shines better.

Bill - willierods.com

If you're just after an even smooth wrap coating Billy, thats easy man.....just put on 3-4 good coats of finish and let them cure out completely, next take a flat stick or hard sanding block, soak some 400 grit and 600 grit wet sanding paper. block sand the wrap perfectly smooth finishing with the 600, clean everything up and re-coat with one coat of a THIN finish like Aftcote or TM Lite. .

DR

I think some may have missed Billy's point. He is trying to avoid having to put on an additional coat of epoxy and was wondering if could save a problem wrap by buffing instead of another coat.

As the epoxy's used on wraps never really gets as hard as casting resin or acrylics I doubt very much that one would be able to simulate their gloss or the gloss of unsanded wrap epoxy.

Duane, that used to be my routine, and it does work pretty good, but it's never perfect. 10-14" on a 15mm++ diameter blank, leaves a LOT of room for imperfections. One ofthe most common problems I had when doing that, was not putting enough finish on, and having dry spots pop up after "sufficiently" putting that final coat on. Onsmaller blanks it's a lot easier to do that and have a closer to perfect finished product, I do agree. You don't even need that sanding block, and you can sand with as much as 220 grit and still puta coat of finish right over that and have all teh sanding marks disappear. 180 was OK sometimes, other times the sanding marks were visible (which led to another sanding and recoating).

Phil, that was my original question, but I kind of started thinking out loud about the other stuff. With the amount of acryllic inserts and thingys I'm goingto make, it's not goign to hurt for me to find out for myself, as you stated I was looking for a quick fix right away on this rod...which I have to go see waht it looks likenow after putting a coat on last night. Fingers crossed as always.

Billy,
An easy way to bring back a bit more shine after sanding and polishing is to do a couple of quick light coats of an automotive clear coat. I had to do this to fix some "mistakes" in the past and so far, everything has held up great (about 2 years and almost 1 year on the 2 rods I "fixed"). In fact, I was looking at the 2 year old rod last week with my client and was very happy with the durability.

Robert

[www.youtube.com]

RBO meets OCC ?

Riley Rods-Hard Core Grips to Go!-----Carbon Fiber - Composite Grip Store-----Capt Mike's Blog-----No Excuses Fishing Charters

The guy in the video isn't sanding and buffing epoxy - it appears he's working with a lacquer which is designed to be sanded and buffed.

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Buffing with rotten stone puts a mirror finish on many furniture finishes. I don't know if it would work on epoxy?

Definitely not epoxy, automotive/airbrush clears. just thought it may be a direction Billy could pursue.

There is a lot of neat ideas and stuff coming from this market. Even though the VOCs are better than ever it still needs to be done properly. I'm clearing out space now.

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