I'm looking for any comments on rod building in cold weather. All of the finishes I've mixed over the last several days have not completely cured. I've wrapped two rods over the last two weeks, and have applied the finish in 6 separate batches to each rod segment over several days. I've used High-Build Flex Coat, as well as flex coat lite. In all 6 batches the finish has cured to an untacky, semi-hardness state. Hard enough that it is not even close to being sticky, but soft enough that I can make a partial nail imprint that disappears if left alone for a minute.

I live in Alaska, north of Anchorage, where we are going through a month-long cold spell of -10 deg (average), with temps as low as -25 deg. I know the room is consistently cold, between 65 deg during the evening, and 55 deg from early morning through mid-evening. I've been building rods for a long enough time that I know enough about properly mixing two-part finishes, and I make it a point to mix thoroughly in both directions, including scraping the sides. I hand-mix for no less than 5 minutes. I use graduated plastic measuring cups from Flex-Coat, and I usually mix no less than 7.5cc each of the two parts. Still, it does happen, even to the best of us, on ocassion. I can accept screwing up an ocassional batch or two, because I have, but 6? I know about the tip to apply a fresh batch of "properly-mixed" finish over uncured finish, but I'm pretty sure that won't resolve my problem at this time, as I suspect the cold temperatures being the primary reason, won't improve the situation. I also read through the FAQs, and performed a search for other posts on the subject, which there seems to be many over a 6 year period. Nothing really addressing cold temperatures.

If it's not the weather, then I truly believe I'm completely stumped. Any suggestions beyond the usual suspects?

Thanks

R.P. Vernacchio

For every 18F drop from about 70F, the time it takes an epoxy finish to set and cure, doubles.

More than likely, it will take about a week to 10 days for your epoxy to cure to "thumbnail proof" hardness in 55F temperatures.

Just wait it out, or try to set the rod somewhere a bit warmer for a couple days.

...........

I believe Patrick, that I would build me a heated dry box for my rods. One with nothing more that light bulbs inside it to warm the rods as they turn on the dryer. If that is not feasable, I'd corner off my rod area (maybe with plastic sheeting?) and use a small electric heater that has NO fan and only heats, to get at least one side/part of the room up in temps a little.

DR

I've let sit other rods before when I wasn't entirely too sure the finish had cured completely, and that seemed to do the trick, but only after a day or too. This winter is by far the coldest, and longest period of cold waiting for the finish to cure. When I get home from work this evening, I plan to look for the warmest area in the house and set the rods up there. Duane's suggestion to build a curing box using light bulbs is something I kicked around before, and given the long-range forcast of more cold weather here, I will start putting one together before the weekend. I appreciate your suggestions, and would certainly like to hear others.

Thanks

Patrick

For you, I think the drying/curing box is the best solution. It's simply a function of time and temperature as Tom describes.

Terry

My basement shop is quite cool, it drops down to 62 degrees because we kep the house pretty cool. I pre heat my epoxies in hot water/ two half full coffee mugs of water in the micro wave for a minute & a half. I then set the bottles of epoxie in the mugs for a few minutes until they are around body temp. I have not had a problem yet this winter. (Knock on wood)

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

Both rods are sitting in an unused bedroom. The nice thing about building my own house is that I set the rooms up with separate heating zones. While the rest of the house is sitting at 60 degs during the day, the rods are resting at a balmy 72 degs. I'll check on 'em this evening when I get home. I've got some composite wood, plexiglass, and some Christmas tree lights that I'm going to use to construct a heatbox this weekend. I just need a few more additional materials to create a rod dryer appliance. Now, I just hope my hot tub doesn't freeze.

Thanks

Patrick

Bill,
Thanks for the suggestion. I myself, haven't experienced any problems with freezing before mixing. At 62 degs, do you notice any changes to the curing time once you've applied your finish to the rod? And, which finish do you use, ie., Flex-Coat, GudeBrod, etc.?

Thanks

I use Flex Coat Lite formula. It does take a while longer to cure. I usually apply it after dinner. I stay with it awhile turning by hand for the first hour then put in the dryer making sure it is well secured. I check on it before bed and it is in good shape when I wake up inthe morning. I learned to check the brush I use and not the wraps. The brush may have a little stickyness to it but just barely. I turn the dryer off and go to work. I have not had any problems. when I come home it is dry to the touch
Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

I use Flex Coat Lite formula. It does take a while longer to cure. I usually apply it after dinner. I stay with it awhile turning by hand for the first hour then put in the dryer making sure it is well secured. I check on it before bed and it is in good shape when I wake up inthe morning. I learned to check the brush I use and not the wraps. The brush may have a little stickyness to it but just barely. I turn the dryer off and go to work. I have not had any problems. when I come home it is dry to the touch

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

(OOPS)

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

Thanks to everyone who responded to my question. I know I was asking within a pretty narrow scope, and not really sure how unique the problem is to builders elsewhere. The heated room seems to be firming up the finish, although a heated box will be more effcient energy-wise. I've got 4 more rods to build before April, so box construction is next (after the "chores").

Thanks,

Patrick