I have been using drywall tape to make 1 inch wide bushing for my Aftco slip on reel seats. I am about to build a couple of stand up rods that will see some heavy drags therefore some heavy pressures. Should I increase the size of the bushing? I usually use 4 bushings I was thinking that I may use a two inch bushing and then a 1 inch wide on each end of the reel seat. I also will be using some graphite reel seats with machined aluminum hoods and would have the same problem if heavy drags was placed on them. I would think that I need to make sure the area under the rod clamp for the reel is well bushed that is why I am thinking about the wider bushing but will the taper create a problem?

I also have a question about Aftco SHD roller tip top guides. I have two blanks that a 15/64ths tip top would fit better but Aftco only makes 14/64ths and 16/64ths. I have bought both and I could drill out the 14/64 to fit better or wrap thread loosely to make up the difference to fit the 16/64ths on. The larger tip top od look out of place. Should I drill it out or just go with the thread for a build up?

These tip tops will also see some heavy drags so I want to make sure they don't move. I alway use 5 minute epoxy on my roller guides and have used the thread method before to make up the slight differences. These are the first rods that I have been told that will see drags of 40 or more pounds. I know as a saltwater fisherman that these drags are a lot for a fisherman to hold onto but I know the Avet reel that will be used on these rods is capable of the drags mentioned and more.

Thad
Dutchman's Creek Tackle

There is enough give in the tape that you won't likely have any trouble with the blanks taper. However, 2 wide bushings (a couple inches wide, each), one fore and one aft, will negate that problem entirely.

If you are using a nylon/graphite type reel seat, I'd go so far as to put a full length bushing under the seat in order to support the clamp. Better yet, choose one of the Flex Coat urethane arbors to fit the seat. Quicker, just as strong over the long haul and one heck of a lot less muss and fuss.

...............

Thad,
If I am using any type tape to arbor the reel seat, I like to use relatively narrower pieces, and then leave about 3/16th inch spaces between the arbors. Then, when gluing the reel seat, I am sure to use plenty of epoxy, so that the space is well filled with solid epoxy. These epoxy ribs, give exceptional strength to any type arbor used for reel seat mounting.

I don't know how thick the rod tip is to allow you to drill it out. However, I would be quite careful, if you want to drill the tip. If you get it to thin, you will likely run into a breakage issue.
On the other hand, if the larger tip, looks completly out of place, then go with the smaller drilled out tip.

Another consideration is to look at the difference of the tip and the tip top. If the tip - almost fits, and if the tip top is quite beefy, it might work better to lightly sand the tip enough so that the smaller tip would fit over the slightly ground down tip.
Again, you need to exercise good judgement, eithe with drilling out the tip top to be aware of wall thickness, or grinding down the tip to avoid getting the wall thickiness of the tip too thin.

Take care
Roger