Friends,

I saw some custom rods with EVA or any material in the butt cap (split grip or regular) that I'm almost sure that both handle and butt cap piece were sanded together base on the joint.
I was wondering: how can we do "lathe" this part together with a blind hole on it? Ideas? Any trick?

You can the object in your lathe, butt end out, without tailstock support. Then part off. Then, flip it around, chuck the butt end and part and use a Jacobs chuck in the tailstock to hold a bit and bore the piece to whatever depth you desire.

...........

Or you can use the flexCoat rod "lathe"setup.
Herb

Hi Herb,

Could you describe the method? I din't get it.
As a machinist I understand Tom's method but my home "lathe" (drill setup) doesn't has all those requirements!!! LOL

Regards,

Rogerio

Tom has described how to make the blind hole for the buttcap. Herb has mentioned the Flex Coat grip lathe with the wheels, driven by a power drill.

Rogerio, I think you are after a grip with a butt cap of the same material, with no visible plugged hole on the end of the grip, with the butt cap seamlessly integrated into the grip end. These are made in 2 pieces, then glued. It is then sanded flush. The key is a thin glue line (or CC in the case of EVA), and a very flush fit. A little pressure when gluing up helps immensely, as provided by a grip clamp or some PVC tape. To sand these flush it is best they are close in diameter, and a sanding block is essential. You also need to hold the rod blank in the chuck if you are doing it on a lathe setup.

The Flex-Coat grip lathe allows you to sand flush the butt cap if it has a through hole. On the mandrel or on the rod butt (short section). For this, mount the butt cap as normal and glue to the end of the grip. You will still have to plug the hole in the end, but if you use the same material, get it close fitting (or even have to squish it a little, then once glued you can cut it off and sand flush. Very smooth and hard to see. Sometimes, I just install the grip so it overhangs the rod end, then plug the hole and cut/sand flush. Same effect.

Rogerio,
When I do butt caps as you suggest, I do the following:

I turn many of my rod handles on the rod. However, even if you turn them by themselves, you can still use the method.
I have the completed handle - either on the rod or separately.

Then, I chuck up a piece of cork or other material that I want to use for the butt cap in my lathe.
I did a bunch of experimenting to find a good way to hold the butt cap. I currently use a flat faced piece of stock that is a bit smaller than the finished side of the butt.
On the tail stock, I use a free running chuck containing a small wire or bit chucked in very short. The reason for the wire, is to keep the butt piece centered as you finish the butt.
Shape, cut, sand and final finish the butt cap to the identical diameter of the previously mentioned handle.

Use a 90 degree sander to insure that the handle is perfectly square before taking the handle measurement for the butt cap.

Finally, use 5 minute epoxy to glue on the butt cap - pressure or a clamp to hold the cap in place. As you hold it in place, clean off any excess epoxy. As the epoxy gets a bit stiffer, do a final clean up of any epoxy and then set the rod aside - resting on the butt for a final dry. You will be good to go - since the butt cap is a perfect fit to the handle and you have used good pressure to eliminate any glue line.

Take care
Roger

Rogerio,
The way I have done many fly rods with the Flex Coat lathe is to wrap the forward section with as mush 3/4" or 1" blue masking tape as you can and still get the taped end into the dril chuck. Tighten the chuck just enough to "dimple" the tape. IF YOU TIGHTEN TOO MUCH YOU WILL DAMAGE THE BLANK. Nextt you will apply additional tape to thwe chuck - running down on to the blank - back up to the chuck and down to the blank again. This anchors the blank to the chuck and does not allow the chuck to loosen. You will also tape the reel seat (MUST BE A ROUND BARREL) and a spot a few inches above the cork grip with wide tape. Here is where you will place the supports you see in the FC picture. Now you can shape the whole glued-up blank - grip and fighting butt together. If you wish I will email you a sample of what they look like finished and you can decide if that is the way you wish to go..
Herb

Herb,

Picture will be great. Thanks again!

Rogerio

Thanks all you guys for the input.

Regards,

Rogerio de Paula

Herb, I had a brain fart as I was typing! Remembered how to do your way, then saw your reply. Only works with short sections though.