I have a Permagloss question for you..relating to my own Permagloss experience (that I'm not quite pleased with).

When you do wraps with Permagloss how do you get them perfectly smooth (after the final coat).... or do they remain a little bit "wavy?"

Mine are wavy...And I've tried all the tricks I thought I had learned from my Min-Wax spar urethane rods. Even on those rods I found that the "wavy" surface developed after several thin coats. What I found worked was sanding with a fine grit paper and then two thicker coats (in fact it helped after the stuff had begun to thicken in the can)...then I got the smooth surface I wanted. That did not work with Permagloss. I put a bunch of thinner coats on....then two thicker coats (after sanding) and I still have that not quite smooth surface. What is your experience here?

I think I ended up with 9 coats...7 very thin ones. Perhaps that is too many.....

I'm considering slicing off the guides and trying again with the spar stuff...but I do like the hardness of the Permagloss.

The rod was, of course, one of Dan Craft's great blanks...matte grey. If I remove the wraps is there something I can use to remove the Permagloss that extends over the ends of the wraps onto the blank?

Anyway, something that will remove the Permagloss...but not harm the blank.

So...What the heck is the secret to smooth Permaglossed wraps? I feel that I've done something srong...but quite can't figure it out.

I suppose the only one who will notice is me...but I will notice.


Thanks,

Keith

Keep in mind that you have to consider Permagloss to be more of a paint. It doesn't respond exactly in the same way that our epoxy finishes do.

I have been able to get nice, smooth wraps with Permagloss just by applying it, quickly, and using multiple coats. But not thick ones. You also can't go back and do a lot of brushing, you have to put it on and move along.

So many of these finish application problems are hard to figure out over an electronic forum like this one. You really need to see how a person is applying the stuff and often you'll spot the trouble area right off.

The Permagloss will get hard enough to sand. If that's what you must do (and you have sufficient build-up to do it) I'd try it before I stripped the rod down. Use a sanding block where possible to get a nice flat surface. When you recoat, put on just enough to re-gloss the surface.

..................

Thanks Tom,

I'll try the sandig block. Hadn't thougth of that.

How much Permagloss is too mcuh (on wraps)?

How do Ideal with the Permagloss on the blank question? On most of my wraps I have a nice transition from the wrap to the blank. But on some it is uneven and I think the Permagloos extendes too far onto the blank. (I wanted it to just extend beyond the wrap edge)

Keith

Usially, you can "peel" finish on the black with a fingernail or acetone on a cloth or with rubbing alcohol. Sometimes it takes lots of patience to get the finish completely cleaned off. Take your time, Don't use anything metal that will certainly mar the blank or worse.
Patrick

In trying to get your finish to extend just beyond the wraps,
I'd use masking tape next to the wraps when making a straight line for the fresh wrapping finish to be placed onto the wraps with.
Just peel the tape off when done before it dries to the rod too!

Keith

Make a test wrap on an old blank with permagloss and sand it then use flex coat or any finisher over it ,then try one coat of permagloss and no sanding then your finisher it will work either way with less work with out sanding,try it to see for your self.

Tim