I often see these CP tests done in the photo gallery. In most tests I see that acitone is applied to one or more samples after the CP . Can I ask what that does for the CP or why it is done. Also do some builders coat rod wraps with acitone after CP and before epoxying on the rods they build. I just can't figure out why the acitone is used.

Charles Where did you see where acitone was used with CP. I have used denatured alcolhol as a thiner when CP gets thick.
Good Wraps Bob

Straight acrylic CP is water based. The urethane/acrylics are alcohol based. Adding acetone to either would be folly. I don't think anyone is doing that. At least I hope they're not.

...........

Maybe he means the epoxy finish? In that case it's to see how well the CP has done its job.

I'm not shure how the acetone was used but it was listed as test wraps of black. On one or two wraps I belive I remember it stating CP with acetone and it looked as if it was epoxyed. I've seen that listed before also. Just curious what the acetone would be used for with the test wraps.

Personally, I can't imagine why acetone would be used anywhere around a wrap

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/18/2008 11:56AM by Mike Barkley.

Acetone is not a good idea on the wraps, and definitely not used for thinning CP. Could have been used to thin the epoxy. Thinner epoxy penetrates better, so probably would be a good test on the CP.

when Flex Coat high build was the only thing around, they said you could thine it with a couple of drops of Acitone to a one OZ. mix. Acitone and FC has a draw back the cure time is extended to 2 days and if not measured correctly well be soft. As for other finishes I would contact their manufactures. U40 does not recomend thining.
Good Wraps Bob

Keep in mind that most if not all of these CP "tests" are anything but scientific tests. Just random samplings with observations tossed in. It's okay to take away some information if you find it helpful, but try to put so much stock into anything there that you decide that something like using acetone in your CP is somehow the correct proceedure. Remember, this the is the internet - you could post your own CP test and say that you added shoe polish to your CP and somebody, somewhere, will take that as something they should do and end up wondering what went wrong.

..................

I was starting to belive I never saw the test. LOL But if you do a search for cp test by a James Labanowski that is where I saw acetone used on a cp test. After going back and rereading the post, James used the acetone over the epoxy finish I belive. Sorry for the confusion on my part. What would this do to the finish ?

It wouldn't be good for it, but if the epoxy is hardened then a wipe with acetone isn't likely to do any real harm.

.................

Hi Charles,

I read the thread you are talking about and I don't understand what Doc (James Labanowski) was doing with the acitone. Email Doc and ask him docski377@aol.com he will tell you. Doc is one of the best custom rod builders around and does not mind answering questions.

Hank
On The Rocks Fishing
Wells, ME.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/18/2008 11:15PM by Milton (Hank) Aldridge.

Doc uses Acitone as a lubricant when installing foam grips. He has been doing this for years and claims he has never had a rod falure doing it this way.
Good Wraps Bob

Did you know most blank manufactures use Acitone to wipe down their blanks before putting a finish coat on them
Good Wraps Bob

I foregot to mention they also wipe the rod with a tack free cloth as some as they wipe the Acitone on to the blank. Never let Acitone stay on a surace for any length of time. It well soften and eat threw most man made items.
Good Wraps Bob

Hi,

I have not read about this test.

If I use CS/CP on a wrap, usually 2 or 3 coats, after the last coat of CS/CP has dried over night I will use 91% iso alcohol to test the wrap for misses or spots that did not get covered properly. The misses will show up as dark spots. 91% Iso Alcohol is used because it evaporates quickly and leaves no residue.

If I have dark spots I apply another coat of CS/CP.

Capt Neil Faulkner

Well thought maybe I should chime in and clear up how and what I use on the CP issue. First the disclaimer. Please know this is not a system widely accepted in all rod building areas but for some reason it works for me and like I am sooo found of saying "If it aint broke then I dont fix it" The following is something I have done almost since Flex Coat hit the market. I am not doing this to change anyones way of applying finish or CP but I also dont wany anyone trying it without knowing how I do it. Also it is always best to experiment on something first before trying it on the real deal. The CP I thin about 15% to 20% with water. I think I started doing this because I was having streaking issues on black thread. I use several coats of CP to make up for it being so thin. On light color thread like white, yellow and lime green I use an extra coat or two. Heck sometimes it almost looks like finish. Now for the finish. I use mostly Flex Coat High Build. I put together about a 5cc total batch of finish in a cup(standard old flex coat stuff) I then put in 15 to 20 drops of acetone and mix it all up. It gets pretty thin. The more carefully you mix it the fewer bubble you will create. I literally whip it but then I also use an alcohol burner very agressively but that take some time and practice so if you try this I would opt for less bubbles to start with. I use those cheapy brushes and probably apply it in a way not readily accepted either but again it works for me. The acetone does something to retard the the chemical reaction and I usually let it turn over night. Usually the next day I trim off any imperfections and apply a regular coat of finish. Most of the time that is enough but sometimes with C or D thread I like to use an extra full coat. OK that should clear up how I do it but please know I see lots of other finishes that look great using other methods described on this forum work. The key to everything is knowing the options, experimenting and find something that works for you. Experiment, experiment, experiment. Then you can post your results to help others. Sure hope this doesnt start a fire storm but I wanted to clear up how and what I do.

Capt. Neil Great tip. I probably use more CP than I need and maybe experimenting with the iso will dial me in to exactly what I need.

Thanks Doc I kind of started the fire storm this time but curiuos minds want to know. I've looked at the cp tests you did and just wondered. Well I hope that ends that. One thing I've taken away from this is I will experiment with thining my cp. I get milky color from two thick coats. But I better stop now about that, I smell smoke. LOL Again thanks Doc for chiming in.

Hi Doc,

I have no idea of who gets the credit for coming up with the idea to brush alcohol over the color sealed wraps as a terst. It is just one of the many things I learned attending the RodCrafter Seminars.

Capt Neil Faulkner