Sorry to post this basic question but I did a search and came up with no answers. I found posts about 2-3 coats for freshwater.

Rebuilt a 15-40 lbs saltwater rod. Feels more like a stick....LOL.

Is 4 coats of Permagloss enough over the A threads? Obviously it'sll take a lot more strain than most freshwater rods.

Thanks,
Mo

Permagloss is extremely hard and abrasion resistant. Extremely. Most likely it's enough, but I doubt you have much of any build up on the threads. Just for additional protection I might be tempted to go with an additional coat or two. It's thin stuff, won't add much weight and you're working with a pretty beefy stick as it is.


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Thanks Tom. Weight is of not concern. I just got tired of painting on layers of permagloss in this case. I did thicken the permagloss so it's really thicker than normal.

Mo

Why not put a coat of epoxy and be done with it?

That would've been my question. I guess I'd like to understand this approach for future reference.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

Because I've not used Epoxy for a loooooong time. i just grabbed what I had....:)

Mo

I would go with the epoxy as well. It will serve better over time. A 15-40# rod is actually light compared to the majority of rods I build.

In comparison a thread finish is softer and well scratch. Permagloss is some what like a urethane bar finish. If it were me I would send Ralph OQuinn a email. Ralph designed and made the stuff. Ralph is a retired Boeing air craft chemist.
Good Wraps Bob

Permagloss is stronger and tougher than epoxy.

The defining concept here, though, is the question 'enough?'.

The thread alone is plenty strong as far as fishing goes. The guides won't come off, regardless of how hard a big fish pulls.

Four coats will have soaked into and sealed the thread from the dangers of moisturer and added some amount of protection from abrasion.

Epoxy over it won't make it stronger, but it may make it prettier, and add a layer of abrasion resitance-sacrifice the softer and more easily repaired surface.....

More coats of permagloss won't add much as far as strength goes, but, again, it will certainly look nicer with a smooth wrap coating.

If the coating isn't 'smooth' then things can get in there, dirt, dust, fish slime, blood, and have little ridges and valleys to cling to.

4 coats of permagloss was never 'enough' for me, even on light freshwater fly rods, but I also wanted them 'pretty'.

Up to you, though. The rod is certainly fishable now.

Buddy

Just back from a long day on the waters using the rod in question.

Well, the rod SNAPPED with about 10 lbs of actual drag. And one of the guides pulled out. (Fifth one out of eight including and counting from the tip). In truth, I'm very surprised. I think the rod snapped first and then the guide pulled out from the force because one of the titanium leg is quite bent. I am quite sure there was a weakened blank that was nicked by my careless handling.
Mo

Did you high stck your rod while fighting your fish or while landing the fish.? How big big was the fish?
Good Wraps Bob

The down side of using Perma Gloss on salt water big stuff is procedural. Unless you understand how the stuff behaves it will be tough to use only Perma Gloss to get a satifacatory rod built. Example: Filling tunnels under large guides will not happen with application of Perma Gloss to the top of the thread wrap. Separate injections or droplets must be applied after initial thread coating to fill large tunnels. Numbr of coat logic will have to be resolved with line class in consideration. Instead of 2 - 4 conventional two part epoxy you may be dealing with 6 - 8 for Perma Gloss.

Bob, It was a WHALE....:) Actually, nothing that glamorous. We were going rockcod and the leadweight/hook got snagged at the bottom. Definitely not high sticking - I'm extremely careful about that.

Yes, I did fill the tunnels using droplets. 4 thick coat using thicker permagloss. I'll be using 8 coats next time...:)

Mo

Mo it still sounds like a high stick . Reeling down to the water and tring to break it off the bottom is about the same. How far down the blank did it break?
Good Wraps Bob

Bob, my rod was not that severely bent and it was definitely about parallel to water surface while the line was going straight down vertically 260 feet down. (Courtesy of the fishfinder sonar.) I would not consider that high sticking but correct me if I'm wrong. I'm always willing to learn.
Broke 19 inches from the tip.

Mo

MO How much of the rod broke? I still sounds like high sticking. Even if the rod is parallel with the water but the tip is bent down at lets say 90% that would still be considered high Sticking if you applied pressure and there was no give. I may also be wrong. Please someone else chime in.
Good Wraps Bob

As above, Broke 19 inches from the tip.

Thanks for the comments - I had a spare with the identical blank so you can be sure I babied the remaining rod the rest of the trip.

Mo

Was the break near the apex of the bend in the rod?
Good Wraps Bob

That I don't know. The rod bent pretty evenly like a good moderately fast rod should. I tested it's twin using 10 lb dumbells and the flex was beautifully even half way down the rod.

I do think I made a mistake somewhere - just not highsticking but perhaps I did....:)

Mo

Bob, given your line of thought, I've been thinking. Basically, the rod broke next to and above the guide that pulled out through the wrap and Permagloss. IF the warp gave way first, then the break makes sense as the load is suddenly increased sharply. however, it is also possible that the break came first and the momentum of the lower half of the rod moving suddenly upward caused the wrap to fail. I can't determine the sequence of event.

OK, this is obviously OT so no need to respond. Just wanted to complete my observations. THANKS!

Mo