OK…so I made a mistake on tearing down a rod. I’m the first to admit I’m a true beginner. This is the pictures of what I did (from a previous post).

[www.rodbuilding.org]

[www.rodbuilding.org]

I was sure the rod was still strong and that I did not effect the integrity of the blank itself but, thanks to the advanced learning curve I gained from this site I think I have a redemption.

Here is what I did to “fix” the situation…I did find some rods at a garage sale this weekend and cut one to pieces. I could not find one to do an “over sleeve” so I did an “internal” sleeve.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

It is epoxied up. My question…am I ok to build at this point? I guess I’m looking for some reassurance.

Thanks everyone for your help!!

Hi Harold,

Yes an internal sleeve is just fine. As long as it was a good fit and you got the epoxy glue in to hold everything good. In fact most repairs in that area are internal.

Hank
On The Rocks Fishing
Wells, ME.

Harold,

Did you read Ralph O'Quinn's how to in the Library section above? I'm thinking if you did, you may have missed one VERY IMPORTANT point. From the looks of the picture you posted, the plug you selected is graphite the same as what the initial blank is made of. When you are doing either an inner sleeve or outer sleeve or both, the sleeve needs to be of a material that is of a lower modulus than what the blank is made of. The preferred material, in this case, is fiberglass. If you don't have fiberglass, then the sleeves must have a thinner wall than the blank. Say you have an IM7 rod you're repairing. Then, if you can't get fiberglass to sleeve with, you would need to use an IM4, 5 or 6 graphite sleeve. As I understand Ralph's tutorial, and from his seminars that I've taken, this would be the appropriate course of action. If I'm mistaken, someone please correct me.

Bill in WV

For an internal sleeve, I think the opposite would be true, as the smaller diameter makes it bend more under the same stress. So an internal plug would be a stronger material, and thicker walled. Spigot ferrules are usually thicker, or even solid (for small diameter sections).

What you describe is spot on for an oversleeve. Ralph's tutorial covers oversleeves mostly, but the one with th inner plug also has an oversleeve joint.

Ted is correct. You're trying to retain the same characteristics as that of the original blank so if you move to a larger diameter piece for an oversleeve, you need a lower modulus material there. On interior pieces, you need higher modulus material or heavier walls (even solid but counter-bored tapered). What you don't want is for there to be a sudden change in properties where the spigot/sleeve/splice etc., is located.

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Ted / Tom,

Thanks for the clarification.

Bill in WV

Why the tapered counter-bore Tom? I assume this is on the ends of the spigot, to reduce stress concentration at the ends?