Morning all:
I have now successfully finish a few fly rods but noticed one feature I would like to improve on. Where putting finish over a fairly long thread wrap (~6 or more inches) I am not able to get the finish smooth over the entire length. By smooth, I mean the finish is not the same height over the 6 inches (running the finger over the finish -- after it is dried of course -- I can feel "ripples".) I realize this is caused by uneven application but do not know how to get it to flow (level out) better. I have used both Threadmaster and Flexcoat. I have also used a very soft brush, a slightly stiffer brush and attempted to use a spatula. All with virtually the same result. I use an electric mixing cup and then pour the finish onto a piece of foil. The end result of the finish is very clear with no bubbles and the finish on the guide threads looks great. It is only on the longer wraps I am having difficulty. What am I doing wrong?

IMO, too much finish - not a situation of being "uneven" but overly generous. I would back off the amount and apply more coats to achieve the depth you desire.

Harold, it reads like you are putting too much finish on those longer sections of wrap. perhaps if you stop the dryer with the guides up and remove what excess finish gathers underneath and then resume turning the rod.Some call this wicking off the excess.

If at first you don't succeed, go fishing, then try, try again.

Besides the possibility of applying too much finish in one application, you are probably not applying the finish lengthwise to the thread. Long thread wraps require lengthwise application of the finish.

So instead of rotating the brush around the thread, use lighter coats, and apply it parralel to the blank and I promise ya it will clear any problems up.

Paul

I'm a newbie but ran into this problem on my first few surf rods so I will offer up what I discovered to be my problem. I found that I was doing two things that seemed to cause this. First I was putting the finish on in a spiral patern instead of brushing it across the wrap. Second, I was putting the rod on the dryer too soon after application. Once I started applying across the rod and allowed the finish to droop (pulling the droops off with a spatula, rotate 180*, wait until droops form again, repeat) for at least 1/2 hour to 45 minutes, depending on how much finish I globbed on there, I ended up with completely level finishes. One other thing that has helped me was going to a lite formula finish as well, thread master in my case. I find that it levels very quickly and i can apply just about however I want as long as I again wait to put it on the dryer.

Are you using heat for bubbles?
I've fond if I don't use heat or VERY little my finish comes out much smoother.

It's usually caused by applying too much finish. Epoxy finish flows on its own - you don't have to do anything to make it do so. In fact, most builders try to do too much with their finishes, impeding the natural flow of the epoxy.

Apply the finish while it's still fairly liquid, brush once or twice along the length and then leave it alone. It knows what to do.

.................

Thanks all for the comments. I guess I am putting too much on. The next rod will get it much lighter.

My thought on the matter is, yes, you are applying too much at one time. It is much better to apply 1/4 as much and do this in 2 applications. Apply finish, put on the dryer overnight and then apply a second coat the next day.

Good luck and have fun!

Harold,
If you want, you can fit your finish. I've done this countless times. I'm not that good on long wraps either. I take 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper wrap it around a small block of wood or use a sanding block and sand down all the high ridges level with the low spots and put more finish on. Use masking tape on each end of your wrap to protect the rod while your sanding. I use water while sanding. Be Careful not to sand into the threads. Hope this helps.
Terry

I second (or third, or fourth) the comments about making long strokes along the length of the wrap (blank).
I was having the same problems with getting ThreadMaster to level on long sections, and was told to do this by Andy Dear.
Since I started doing this I have had perfectly smooth and glassy finishes.

Also, as others have said, I apply an overly adequate amount of finish and then let it sit still while the finish sags. I then use a spatula to remove the sags from the bottom, turn the rod 180 degrees, and repeat the process until there are no more sags. THEN I put the rod in the dryer. You will not be disappointed.


Walt

on key points where finish surface will be most noticeable, like the butt wrap, stripper guides and any long sections, i'm finding if i hit those areas first then follow up by doing the individual guides, the finish has less chance of thickening on the "important" areas so more chance to smooth out on its own. by the way, i just used threadmaster lite for the first time and noticed much nicer results than flexcoat lite. FC was fine, just threadmaster seems so much nicer to me.

eric
fresno, ca.

Put a layer of finish on then, using a lint free wiper(coffee filter), try to wipe it all off. You won't , but will create a very thin finish. Repeat until you get the level tha tyou want then quit putting it on.

On a butt wrap I always like to use a playing card or an old credit card to "squeegee" the finish down into the low areas and off the high areas. I do this with the rod rotating in the dryer. I am actually forcing the finish off the higher areas into the lower areas. I will pick up the finish with the card and apply it to the bottom side of the rod while it is turning. I brush it on the guide wraps first and that gives the finish time to begin setting up just a little. By doing the butt wrap last the finish will not flow as easy on its own which in turn will make it stay in the low areas. I can get a smoother finish with fewer humps. An old Mike Barkley 'trick of the trade".

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY