I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2024 ICRBE EXPO
CCS Database
Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
American Grips Piscari
American Tackle
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
BackCreek Custom Rods
BatsonRainshadowALPS
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
HFF Custom Rods
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Palmarius Rods
REC Components
RodBuilders Warehouse
RodHouse France
RodMaker Magazine
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Stryker Rods & Blanks
TackleZoom
The Rod Room
The FlySpoke Shop
USAmadefactory.com
Utmost Enterprises
VooDoo Rods

Rod Repair
Posted by: Albert Bassett (---.asm.bellsouth.net)
Date: January 04, 2008 09:42PM

I do a lot of fresh water rod repair. I have been using Flexcoat High Build just as I do on rod building. I will turn the rod for 2 or so hours. Is there something else I could be using that you don't turn as long. I got a lot more rod repair coming in.
Thanks

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Rod Repair
Posted by: Raymond Adams (---.hsd1.ca.comcast.net)
Date: January 04, 2008 10:00PM

Threadmaster sets faster than Flex-Coat and
Diamondite finish sets even faster.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Rod Repair
Posted by: Jim Gamble (---.126-70.tampabay.res.rr.com)
Date: January 04, 2008 10:16PM

To clarify what Ray said ... Threadmaster REGULAR sets in a fairly short amount of time, Threadmaster LITE takes a very long time.

Diamondite will not only set, but cure, within 1-1.5 hours with the application of heat and air circulation.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Rod Repair
Posted by: Albert Bassett (---.asm.bellsouth.net)
Date: January 05, 2008 08:24AM

Where am I able to get these items. I get most of my items from Mud Hole I didn't see them on there web site.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Rod Repair
Posted by: Jim Gamble (---.126-70.tampabay.res.rr.com)
Date: January 05, 2008 09:39AM

Mud Hole most definitely carries Diamondite ... [shop.mudhole.com]

IMO, you shouldn't even be messing with anything else for repair work. This makes it so easy, it is almost cheating. BTW, do read the instructions below for using Diamondite ... it is NOT an epoxy. It is super easy to use, but different.

Understand that it is NOT an epoxy, it is an adhesive based product.

1. Don't overmix it, 30-45 secs is plenty.

2. After mixing, let it sit for 4-5 minutes to allow finish to mature.

3. Don't pour it out in a thin layer like epoxy ... just the opposite, keep it in a deep container while using it. It is unique, rather like glue and paint - when in significant capacity ... it doesn't dry or at least not quickly at all. But spread it thin, and poof ... it quickly dries and sets. I use the small souffle cups like the FC product for mixing and applying Diamondite. The working time is about an hour, even at my shop temp of 80 degrees.

4. It is VERY clear.

5. It is VERY strong and hard.

6. It is VERY flexible.

7. You CAN apply additional coats long after the others - again, those adhesive properties kick in.

8. It does NOT contain any amines ... no sensitivity issues.

9. It levels very well.

10. It penetrates very well.

11. It actually stays where you put it and can be applied thin or thick, pretty cool trick considering how accustomed most of us are to epoxies.

12. It WILL slice your delivery time by DAYS.

13. Always remember, 1 part activator and 2 parts base component. BTW, it isn't real picky about the ratio ... obviously, mix it in proper ratio - but it won't fry your potatoes like epoxies do when the numbers aren't right.

14. It cures via evaporation and will cure in the same amount of time as other finishes. However, should you desire to accelerate the drying time ... you can do so with heat and or air movement. Complete jobs CAN be cured in as little as 1-1.5 hours - completely ready to ship/fish.

15. Should you care to use CP, it is best to use Diamondite CP. The CP will cure enough in 15 minutes to apply finish, although I like to wait an hour or so.

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster