When I began building fly rods using snake guides, my first step was to put a drop of finish in the "tunnel" area with a toothpick and then complete the rest of the wrap. Now that I'm using ceramics on everything now, I seem to wind up with a tad more finish under and in back of the guide eye than I want. Since I use the Forhan lock exclusively, I'm wondering if the "pocket" caused by this wrap allows extra finish to get trapped in that tunnel area now when I rotate my blank 180 degrees - guides up then guides down - before I start the dryer motor.

Since I always use two thin coats on my wraps, should I not fill that tunnel on the first coat (or not at all) and would rotaing the blank with the guides from 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock also help to keep finish from collecting in that pocket? I'm putting on the second coats now so I can't experiment at the moment. Thanks.

Tim,

I've found that I don't 'need' to try to get the finish into that area. When I apply the first coat, I make sure that I flood the wrap all the way to the end of the locking wrap, then I use the brush and a paddle to take off as much of the finish as I possibly can. The finish wicks into the tunnels perfectly, and I don't get that little unsightly 'drop' of finish under the guide foot/ring jucntion.

Like you, I use two thin coats of finish (Flex Coat High Build). But, it sounds like I'm using less that you are, since I don't need to turn mine at all. I just apply the second as thin as I can and let it level.

Good Luck!

Buddy Sanders

Tim,
Regardless of the type of guide I use, I always fill the tunnel alongside the guide foot with epoxy - to create a "shoulder" of finish along the foot to keep the foot from sliding laterally. I do so this on the first coat, which I believe is fairly common among rod builders. The method used to fill the tunnel may vary though. Some have written that they use something like a toothpick to place finish into the opening of the tunnel. This method may be very effective, but I worry that placing epoxy at the opening may actually trap air in the tunnel.

The method I use actually pushes epoxy through the thread wraps and into the tunnel. My epoxy application is done on a low hand wrapping stand, not on a motorized lathe. I apply a generous amount of epoxy on each side of the guide foot and while applying to the rest of the wrap the glob begins to sink through the wrap and into the tunnel. I aid the penetration by pressing the flat side of my brush against the wrap which forces epoxy through the thread, which in turn forces air out of the tunnel. When I see epoxy starting to approach the opening of the tunnel I know that it's completely full. By this time I've applied the amount of epoxy I want on the rest of the wrap and move on to the next wrap. I usually apply the epoxy to the guide feet area one guide ahead of the one I'm working on so it has time to seep in.

When all guides are coated to my satisfaction I place the sections into my mechanized dryer, but rotate by hand (180 degree turns) for about five minutes before turning on the dryer. After about another five minutes I stop the dryer so the guide feet are facing up, and then swipe a bodkin needle across the gap at the base of the guide to remove excess epoxy that may be wicking up the guide foot. The timing is such that the epoxy is still soft enough to remove, while still allowing any disturbance I've created to settle down.

This method works for me, the tunnel is full and excess epoxy is gone.

Edit: I should have noted that I do not use color preserver on my guide wraps.

Jeff Shafer



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/22/2007 12:42PM by Jeff Shafer.

One thing I have done and I think it was a tip gotten on this board. After the finish has set up some in my dryer, I take some thread and use it to take away the extra epoxy under the guide ring area. I also have found if you flood the thread with the first coat and then take away as much as you can, the tunnels do get filled just fine. I take away enough epoxy so when the first coat is dry, you can still feel and see the threar ridges. The second coat finishes it off.

We place CP in the channel. The thin viscosity allows the CP to penetrate into the area and force the air out through the threads. We let it dry thoroughly and then continue.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

Tim, use the thread method, works like a charm

I use a disposable flosser [www.rodbuilding.org]

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!