Just for lack of nothing better to do I weighed 3cc of Threadmaster resin and hardener.Resin was 3.6g and hardener was 2.9g.Have heard some people weigh to get the mix right but this proves again that it will be off by a bit.Without fancy math i see about a .4cc difference.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Fred you messin with my head too early - think about this during your period of numbness!

Building a rod that should weigh in at 3.5 oz when done -

If you mixed up the finish you describe and use 80 % of it on the rod you will have added approximately 16 gms of finish - (three coats)

1 oz = ~ 25 gm

You will add approximately 3/4 of a gram or 21% of the total weight of the rod -

Does this mean Jack?

I will pour a glass containing four fingers of the real Jack, will not bother to weigh, and chuck it down! The real Jack will numb me for the rest of the day and finish weight will be lurking in the background as I sniff Perma Gloss.

Gon Fishn



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 11/09/2007 09:13AM by Bill Stevens.

Uhmmm....Bill - If someone is applying THAT MUCH finish to a FW blank weighing under 2oz tehy are doing something WAY wrong. REalistically, a light FW rod with short guide wraps and small guides will need a total of maybe 2CC's of finish, and that's probably pushing it. I know on my lite SW rods built on FW blanks, I only mix 1CC of each and am able to coat teh guides for 2 rods, adn still ahve quite a bit of excess.

So your math is totally out of whack.

Bill -

#1 - 1 ounce equals 28.35 grams. You might want to consider a new dealer. LOL

#2 - Give me back my PermaGloss!

Jim -

Fred, I have been weighing Threadmaster for several years, haven't had a "defective" bottle, since I started weighing.

These epoxies are designed to be mixed by volume, not weight. Fred is correct.

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We must also take into count the solivents that leave the finish. I know the two part finish's do not contain solivents, but in reality they have too. They are SMALL and MILD, but they are there, other wise you wouldn't have a scent to the finish, and if you've ever used it in a small contained room, you know the smell I'm speaking of. Some weight is lost with those escaping solivents, probably very little, but some.

Guide wraps take VERY LITTLE finish, most of my finish use is in the split grip and forgrip areas and here the weight means much less to the rod performance than it would out on the rods tip where it matters greatly. I'd guess for my wraps only, I would use (bass rods) no more than 1/2cc of finish per coat....that'd be 1.0cc per rod and I doubt you could feel the difference between the same rod with NO finish on the wraps and the same rod with 2 coats.


DR

Fred's right. Finishes are intended to be measured by VOLUME, not weight. Obviously, the bigger batches you mix the more off you will be. . Measuring with syringes in the cap of inverted bottles has to be the quickest and most accurate method out there, IMO

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

The technical…

Epoxy resin components do Not go together as a 1:1 ration by either volume or by mass, they go together in a 1:1 ratio by number of molecules, expressed in units called mols. Because the resin and the hardener will always differ in both molecular mass and in density, if you were working with pure products you would have to perform Stoichiometry to calculate the exact mass or volume ratio needed to deliver a certain number of mols, it would not be 1:1 by either measure. Stoichiometry is a pain to learn, any of the freshmen I am currently teaching would hapily vouch for this. So…

The practical…

Comercial resin systems are not pure substences, they contain additives that adjust the overall solution so that a 1:1 mixture by volume is posible. This makes it easy, use it and love it, don’t confuse the matter.

As to smell…

The resins and hardners evaporate fast enough that you can become sensitized to them and smell them.

As to solvents…

Each fraction of your resin system is dominated by either the epoxide or the amine, so, technically speaking, these are the solvents. The aditives are the solutes. Since the solutes become entrapted in the solidified polymer after the epoxy cures they affect the structure of the finished product. Some posable examples would be nanoparticles such as fullerenes or metal oxides which would reinforce the matrix, or polyepoxides which become encorperated into the polymer matrix and can increase heat resistance. If the solute is one of the organic liquids comonly used as cleaners or thinners it will weaken the polymer. Any solute which does not become directly incorperated into the polymer itself will decrease the melting point and increase the boiling point. This is the same chemical principle that allows ice-melt and antifreze to work.

"Comercial resin systems are not pure substences, they contain additives that adjust the overall solution so that a 1:1 mixture by volume is posible. This makes it easy, use it and love it, don’t confuse the matter. "

Exactly, just as has been pointed out here many times. The manufacturers/suppliers of these products we use have formulated them in such a way that they're easy to use. Part of that ease of use is a simple 1 to 1 mix ratio. They've done the formulation work in such a way that you don't have to anything more than just your level best to get a nice 1 to 1 mix, by volume.

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Exactly what I was getting at.At the show last year I witnessed a builder telling Ralph O`Quinn that that was the best way to measure finish.He obviously debunked the builders theory and that person walked away mumbling that he was crazy.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

I measure mine by volume, and there is a lot of technical information on this post, buuuuuut When I buy a 16 oz kit that comes in two 8 oz bottles if one weighs less than 8 oz. then the manufacturer is not selling me what I paid for??? Is an oz. a unit of measurement in weight or volume?

No dispute just curious how that factors in......

In this case, volume. Fluid ounces.

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