Gidday Guys

I have applied my Threadmaster too thick and ended up with a wavy finish. Is there any remedy for this or, do I just put up with it?

Cheers
Chris

I would let it cure then scrap the high areas level with the low spots the lightly scuff with a gray scuff pad. then apply another coat of finish. This time while the rod is rotating look at the bottom side of the rod. and if you see globbs foarming on the bottom wick them off or wipe the high sides into the low areas. this should give you a level finish.
Good Wraps Bob

I put sandpaper on a wood block and sand it flat. The recoat lightly. Do not sand so deep you get into the threads. Just enough so that you see the sanding scratches appear all the way around the finish. Then work down through finer grades and recoat. Good luck.

Richard gave you some good points
Good Wraps Bob

Mmmm... I don't know how the sand it flat will go. I have decals under. I don't think I have the skill. Is it easily done?

Maybe I will just have put up with it!

What are my chances of levelling it with another coat of epoxy?

Mmmm... I don't know how the sand it flat will go. I have decals under. I don't think I have the skill. Is it easily done?

Maybe I will just have put up with it!

What are my chances of levelling it with another coat of epoxy?

Chris,

Just lightly knock off the high spots with a popsickle stick wrapped with a piece of 400-600 grit paper, dont do a major sanding, just get it a little better. Then re-coat fairly heavily with your new finish and make SURE that your rod is level. This wont ruin your decals and it will level out your low/high spots.

DR

Chris Beverley Wrote:

>
> What are my chances of levelling it with another
> coat of epoxy?

I give you a 0% - 1% chance of leveling it by simply putting on another coat. Sanding is the only way now that I know of.

Next time try brushing the finish the long way to help it level\distribute it better. Also you can apply heat to make the threadmaster turn very very thin like water and allow the excess to drip off the rod and you can wick some off at the same time this will level it also.

I tought a few people how to apply finish well by using an old stripped down blank, letting them apply finish over and over again then cleaning the blank off while still wet using alcohol. The secret was using Aftcoat the stuff takes forever to dry so it lets you play with it a long time. Both people got very good at appyling their finish the first rods after that were very good.

Goodluck!

Chris,
I have had this problem myself before. I didnt know what caused it at the time but I sanded it out
and recoated it again and it turned out fine the second time. If it works for me it should work for anyone.
Good luck! Rex

Thanks guys. I will give it a shot.

Cheers
Chris

Hint! After the finish has been applied and the rod is turning, look at the underside of the finish. You should beable to see where the build up is. Using long strokes wick of the excess to the low areas. I know if you are using flex coat and add a little heat these areas show up faster. Just becareful using heat. I use a butane torch. YOU must keep the flame moving. Keep a blue flame about 10 inches away from the finish. Too much heat well crystalize your finish. If you have never used heat before. Do some test wraps first. When you get use to using flames then do it on your good wrap. I place my hand in front of the flame and when I can feel heat for 4 seconds and I don't get burned that is the distance I keep the flam from my wrap. Like I said earlier keep the flam moveing. Just remember heat is the cureing agent for epoxy finishes Iknow you can use heat with Flex Coat. So if you are using another finish, contact (call)the manufacture. Most manufactures are a good at helping cure a problem that we sometimes miss
Good Wraps Bob

I have done this before, with good results. Using a wet or dry paper, because it's backing is pretty flexable, lay it on a thick leather belt and use a shoeshine motion to sand. It tends to keep a level surface lengthwise, like a block but with a rounded surface on the circumference.

Is it possible to sand with 400 and 800grit or x-fine steel wool, then spray a lacquer finish over the epoxy instead of adding another coat of epoxy? I'm referring to the area over the rod signature, not the thread wraps. I think the lacquer would adequately fill in the roughness from the sanding and perhaps is easier to apply a thin uniform coat by spraying a few thin layers.

There are litterally hundreds of us here on the site that can lay finish that doesnt need any sanding. Just practice and there is no need for sanding or trying to find other things to coat the rod with.

I'm sure that's true, Henry. I can't speak for the person who started this thread, but having finished my first rod I decided to "fix" a couple of spots where my epoxy finish was not smooth and even. Sanding the bumps flat and then spraying lacquer to produce a glossy finish worked. I sure wish I was better with the epoxy in the first place though. If I were to do another rod I think would find some broken blank pieces and practice trying to get a smooth and even finish.

Henry,

Sometimes things go wrong. I am sure it happens to you if you are honest with yourself. I spent a long time n the rod and to have a wavy finish at the end is disappointing. I also don't have a great deal of time available for this hobbie due to work and family committments.

I was just fishing for a possible remedy.