Is carpenter's wood glue OK for building a cork ring handle?
I just noticed Elmer's Carpenter Wood Glue has "All Purpose" and "Interior".
I was at the hardware store and saw that Titebond II was labeled "carpenter's glue"
and read here is was good to use. Is Titebond III better?
Thanks

I`ve been using the Titebond III with great results.Just make sure whatever glue you use is water proof.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Titebond II & III are good for glueing rings together but not for bonding grip to blank Don't know how Emers holds up to water.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Mike Barkley Wrote:
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> Titebond II & III are good for glueing rings
> together but not for bonding grip to blank Don't
> know how Emers holds up to water.


Elmers brand makes a few equivalent Tite Bond type adhesives that are "waterproof" Be sure to read the labels.

Both Elmers and Tite Bond glue do not have gap filling qualities. For bonding anything that does not have a tight seam or good
surface to surface contact you will need a thixotropic adhesive like Rod Bond epoxy or you can make your own thickened epoxy glue by
mixing in wood dust, cork dust, cabosil or microfibers.

Titebond III works fine on cork grips, but it's tough on steel mandrels. The moisture in it will rust your mandrels overnight. So remove the grip promptly and clean the mandrel thoroughly if you want to keep it in like new condition.

.............

Since cork is the bark off a tree,
it just makes sense that tight bound III would work

David, Why mess around with any type or Brand of carpenter's glue, especially when it says "Interior use", which is saying that it's not waterproof?

You are investing considerable time and money making a cork ring handle, so don't take chances - Stick with the expert's proven way to bond cork rings together :

1). Use Trondak U-40 Rod Bond

2). Use a flexible spatula and coat the surface of each mating ring with a very small amount of U-40 Rod Bond, then wipe it off, leaving just a very thin film of U-40. Then, assuming that you have a cork clamping devise, tightly clamp the bundle of rings tightly together. (be sure to wipe any U-40 from the center hole in the cork rings)

3). After clamping, a small amount of U-40 Rod Bond will be squeezed out of the cork joints, which you should wipe off, using a rag and denatured alcohol. Then wipe the entire surface of the cork again with a clean dry rag.

4). Let the U-40 cure over night, then use a Lathe (or sanding block) to machine the cork handle to make the O.D. concentric with the center bore I.D.

5). If done as described herein, it will be difficult to see the joints between the cork rings.

Have Fun!

Rena (I love cork handles, I only wish I could get "PINK" cork )

Lisen to Rena

You can also use Andy Dear's products (the epoxy glues) in either the 24-hr, 15min, or 5min compunds, as well as AmTak. It's also possible to use DevCon 24-hr or even the 5-minute two-part epoxies, but these tend to run a bit, although they saturate the cork surfaces pretty nicely.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

For cork glueing, Titebond III is the stuff. Rodbond is also good, but TBIII does just as good of a job at considerably less expense. For gapfilling structural applications, Rodbond or Andy Dear's epoxy is the stuff to use. Tom K hit it right on the head though - get that grip off the mandrel with TBIII, as it will form a surface rust. If I run into that I just chuck the bare mandrel into the lathe and polish it with a course 3M pad, it cleans it up just like new.