I understand that an initial coat of finish is required on a blank before applying a water slide decal. Oherwise, the decal will show up as a shadow underneath the final coat of finish. Sometimes a bubble or dust speck will show up in this initial coat which will require sanding out. Also, the initial coat will require roughing up with sandpaper or steel wool, etc if too much time has elapsed after application. Will the decal show up on the roughed surface, and if so, how do you guys handle this problem?

First of all Gerald I wouldn,t use sand paper or steel wool to "rough up" the initial coat. You should only clean the blank with alcohol and a lint free towel. When dry use a scotch bright pad to create a waterbreak surface if you really feel you have too. I don't even do that though as there really is no need to scuff the paint on the blank. Then aply a coat of your finish as it leaves the slide looking like its floating whaen your done. If you cut the decal without corners and with a sharp blade not scissors and used the micro sol and set as directed you should not see any lines and the letters look like the are floating with a perfect finish unerneath.The best way to get rid of that dust or bubble is too not have it in the first place. find a area away from where you sand cleann or anything else and thats where you finish. Avoid dusting or vacuming for a while before finish work. If dust is a major problem in your area try misting the area with water a half hour or so before finishing it will settle the dust. Then move slowly as you finish. if you need more help email me i will give you some more suggestions that may help.

"Also, the initial coat will require roughing up with sandpaper or steel wool, etc if too much time has elapsed after application. Will the decal show up on the roughed surface, and if so, how do you guys handle this problem?"

Gerald, I think that in most cases when using sandpaper or steel wool, it likely would be visible to some degree.

Over top of completely cured epoxy finish, I've come to just using some gray Scotchbrite and lightly scuffing this area, applying a coat of Permagloss, waiting several hours and applying the waterslides. A second, light coat of epoxy finish would work fine, of course, but a bit more waiting time in drying would likely be needed (with most brands of epoxy finish).

I had "gotten by" previously with using a piece of well-worn gray Scotchbrite and applying the decal over that, though, and never had visibility problems when doing it a few times. Since trying the Permagloss out for this, I doubt that I'll ever take this chance again, though.


Billy, I'd have to disagree with the statement of using a blade over scissors when trimming the decals, though. I know blades can work, but they do tend to "roll" the clear decal in front of the blade causing outline problems on the finished decal that scissors just don't do.

I don't mean to argue with you on that at all. I just want to point out to others reading these words we throw up here that blades do tend to do that and that some unsightly problems can occur when using a blade when doing the final trimming.

You're likely using a very, very sharp blade and are very competent at using it (light pressure and "gently" turning the corners) when you use blades. In this regard, a good set of scissors is a much better tool for trimming the decals in most rod builders' hands (at least that's my opinion, Billy). Again, I'm not meaning to argue here, just pointing this out to others who are tuned in here.




Putter
Williston, ND

Thanks for the tips guys, but I am having trouble following Billy's sequence of steps. As I am new to this board, and E-mail challanged, how do I get in touch with you?

Jerry Guinn

I trim the decal close to the printing with a scissors held at an angle so that the edges of the decal are tapered. I put a coat of finish on the blanks first to give it a "3D" look. Although many don't, I always wet the area where the decal will sit with Micro-Set first and then apply the decal. I follow up with Micro Sol after an hour. There was an article in Rodmaker that is shown on the Decal Connection site on the left For what it's worth, I have never scuffed, sanded, etc before or after I applied a decal

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/09/2007 02:08PM by Mike Barkley.

thanks puttter your the guru on the subject and ofcourse no arguement thats why we are all here to see new ways of doing things. Although i have never had a problem with the blade and i do it at an angle like mike said to sort of "ramp" it up I will try a pair of scissors next time if I have a pair sharp enough. Thanks for the advice. The biggest thing i was trying to get gerald tounderstand was not to scuff the paint to begin with as that may show up in the end.

Sounds good, then Billy.

Gerald, I hope I didn't misread what you wrote. I think you were asking that if the finish was older ("... if too much time has elapsed after application"), what do you do to re-coat with a decal.

I thought at the time that you were talking about getting that old coat underneath to meld in with the new coat and my above response was to deal with that in mind. That's how I approach the problem of old finish and needing to put a waterslide over top of it.

Putter
Williston, ND