Rather than make several posts I’ll try to ask these in one thread. I’ve suspected for a long time I have too much thread tension on my wraps.

- what’s the minimum amount of wraps needed at the beginning of a wrap to secure the tag underneath? I know I do too many because of the “V” created where the tag goes under the wrap and I snug it up.

- how many turns are needed at the end of the wrap (I usually use the Forhan locking wrap on my sf)? I’m wanting to change to - snug the tag up to the edge, cut the tag and pull through leaving the tag end underneath the wrap. I can never get an exposed tag trimmed good enough to suit me, just wondering how many turns are needed to keep the end from unraveling?

- and for a finish question - I’ve really improved on my wrap finishes since adopting the “drop loaded brush onto wrap, rotate 180 degrees, and then wick the excess off the bottom” method. But on my small sf running guides, no matter how thin I apply my finish, it runs onto the eye stem and creates a little "bridge" behind it. I assume this happens with the guide pointed down while the finish levels on the top side. Would rotating the blank so the guides are only at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock during leveling instead of straight up and down eliminate this? Actually I don’t see it as a bad thing since it does reinforce the guide but it is adding a snitch more weight (and I don’t see the need for the locking wrap with it). Thanks.

> time I have too much thread tension on my wraps.

I don't believe that there is such a thing as too much tension, although others will disagree. I haven't had to make a repair due to it, in my mind that qualifies the statement.

> - what’s the minimum amount of wraps needed at the
> beginning of a wrap to secure the tag underneath?
> I know I do too many because of the “V” created
> where the tag goes under the wrap and I snug it
> up.

5 is preferable, IMO.

> - how many turns are needed at the end of the wrap
> (I usually use the Forhan locking wrap on my sf)?
> I’m wanting to change to - snug the tag up to the
> edge, cut the tag and pull through leaving the tag
> end underneath the wrap. I can never get an
> exposed tag trimmed good enough to suit me, just
> wondering how many turns are needed to keep the
> end from unraveling?

5 once again, IMO. This would apply to standard wraps (single w/o Forhan, double footed). With the Forhan, it is pull through in place during the last pass in front of the guides, one behind, three locking, three blocking and pull.

> - and for a finish question - I’ve really improved
> on my wrap finishes since adopting the “drop
> loaded brush onto wrap, rotate 180 degrees, and
> then wick the excess off the bottom” method. But
> on my small sf running guides, no matter how thin
> I apply my finish, it runs onto the eye stem and
> creates a little "bridge" behind it. I assume this
> happens with the guide pointed down while the
> finish levels on the top side. Would rotating the
> blank so the guides are only at 3 o’clock and 9
> o’clock during leveling instead of straight up and
> down eliminate this? Actually I don’t see it as a
> bad thing since it does reinforce the guide but it
> is adding a snitch more weight (and I don’t see
> the need for the locking wrap with it). Thanks.

Yes, that would help ... but you aren't really going to be scolded for having a microgram of additional weight via epoxy. I will mention that you are NOT gaining any strength by having it there, contrary to your statement. Remember that thread is your strength, epoxy is just a protectant.

Tim,

I use five wraps at both the start & end to secure the tags. The way I trim my tags is to pull the tag toward the end of the wrap, pulling just hard enough to create a gap lage enough to get a razor blade between the #5 & #6 threads. I then lay a SHARP razor blade in the gap I created (blade pinning the tag to the blank), then pull the tag up into the blade. Then I push the end of the wrap back toward the center using a burnishing tool to close the gap I created.

I use a lot of single foot fly guides and know exactly what you're talking about with the finish "bridging". I've gotten to where I don't put the rod in the dryer until that quits happening. I use a 1/8" (purple) disposable brush to wick the finish out from behind the ring until it stops building up there. 15 minutes is usually enough time for the excess to quit building up there.

Mark Griffin
[]
C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California

I am not being a smart allick but when the thread breaks you are using tooo much tension. The only place I worry about tension is near the tip of some ul freshwater graphite stuff other than that I really put the hammer down but that is just me.

As to the dimple you create when you whip the ends, with a little hard burnishing you can really reduce the appearance. Try pushing out on the dimple and in on either side of it. I am like Mark and use about 5 to 6 threads but sometimes a couple more if I am not paying attention or lose count.(that is if I am wearing shoes lol)

To reduce the bridging I usually blow it out with a tube and pen barrell.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/09/2007 01:46PM by James(Doc) Labanowski.

As far as the tag ends go, the use of a quality cuticle clipper pretty much eliminates any problems. These run about $15 at a large drug store or Beauty supply store. They have a lifetime guarentee and most offer free lifetime sharpening. (I have used mine for over 3 years and haven't needed them sharpened) [www.rodbuilding.org] I got the tip from from Bill Stevens in Charlotte a few years ago and wouldn't use anything else. I think Bill has two pairs and rotates sending them in for sharpening

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I am sure the Tweezerman sharpening shop in Chicago will certainly celebrate my demise! Initial cost $ 24.95 - Lifetime free sharpening!

What are you cutting with these things Bill? I have had the same pair of flush cut wire cutters for 7years now and they cutt like butter. No fair snipping wire leaders. LOL

Minimum to lock teh thread when you start...depends on blank diameter and the amount of tension you are using. I'm not recommending this, but you can lock a thread in at teh beginning or end of a wrap with 2 or 3 turns. To remove that Vee at the outer edge - if you only have 3 turns this will not work as teh thread might slip out - rotate teh blank fast (foot pedal rules) and press teh edge of something flat against teh end of the thread. IF the blank is straight and doesn't wobble as it turns, this will result in a perfectly straight edge 100% of the time. Same when you apply finish. Cutting the tag end, I just nip it off after teh 1st coat is hard, then apply the net coat of finish and I never have to worry about it again.

I do like Doc and Mark. I wrap around my pull line about 6 or seven time. Next I put my tag into the pull line and holding the tag secure I pull the tag line threw 2 or three wraps. Next I look at the tag ansee where To cut it off so it well be coverd by 5 wraps . this way when I pull it threw I have no tag line fries coming threw. Next burnish the wrap. some times I take adamp brush and mosten the bump left by the tag and lighty burnish. tworda the middle. I never burnish back an forth.
Good Wraps Bob

Great idea with the moistening Bob. That should really help.

To clean out the finish behind the eyes use a piece of thread, wrap it around both your hands like you were going to floss your teeth, then slide it behind the eye just like flossing. The excess finish will be soaked up by the thread. I use this method as the final touch after wicking off all exces finish.

Thanks guys, I'm sure these ideas will help me do a better job.

Sam that is a great suggestion
Good Wraps Bob

Thanks, Bob & Sam!!! Great tips

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Great tips as usual with the above. For that web of finish on the foot, I use a probe or toothpick (something sharp and small) to pull it out and back over to the main finish when it stiffens up, similar to Sam's thread "flossing". How stiff? If you cook, think soft peaks on a merigue. If you don't cook, play with your excess finish. When you can stick a tool in it, pull it out, and a small sharp point pulls up and takes about 10 - 15 seconds to settle back down. If it is runnier than that, the web will just re-form. Or just babysit it as it dries and when you see webs, keep pulling them out.

I also use a toothpick to clean out the finish behind the guides, works GREAT!

When using a thin slow setting finish, I usually clean behind the guides about 3 times during the thickening process. With fast setting finish's like Threadmaster, I usually only clean once.