I know this question has come up a lot on this site, but I have gotten even more confused after reading all the different ideas that come up from a search on "spey grips," or "buidling cork grips."

What is the best, safest, and easiest way to build cork grips out of rings for a spey rod?

Some say it is best to build them on a threaded rod, while others say it is best to do it directly on the blank.

My concern is that I haven't ever built a cork grip and I am hesitant to build directly on the blank the first time, but I am also worried I won't be able to get them off the threaded rod. I can just see myself turning some perfect grips and not being able to get them of the rod after the glue dries.

Is it a good idea to do some practice runs? Cork is kinda pricey for that though. Any suggestions on reamers?

Everyone has their favorite methods. I never build them on the rod. I glue them up on threaded rod, transfer to a mandrel and turn /shape them on my lathe. My reasoning is that if I make a mistake while turning on a mandrel, I can cut out my mistake and re do. If I screw it up while already glued to the blank, I have a real problem. You also take the risk of breaking the blank while turning at high speed on a rod lathe. I use a wood lathe and use mandrels.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I build cork handles exactly like Mike. Sometime I will glue them up on a mandrel, clamp them up to dry, then go right to the wood lathe with it.
You need to rub down the all-thread rod or mandrel with paraffin to keep the glue from sticking so bad. It makes it easier to get the handle off.
You can get paraffin at most any big grocery store or Wal Mart. One drawback about gluing up on a mandrel, the glue will rust the mandrel wherever it touches. I always have to clean up my mandrels afterward. I use Titebond II or III, either will work fine and both are waterproof.

I use a mandrel Just a a hair smaller than the rod I Am putting the cork on. I use old rods for my mandrel. I also apply a thin coat of parifin wax so the cork does not glue itself to the mandrel. There is just enough surface rension to allow the cork to beshaped on my power turner.
Good Wraps Bob

A lenth of clear plastic tubing, the length of your corks. Placed on the threaded rod before glueing, stops all the worry about the corks sticking to the threaded rod.

Paul

You must think about how you will turn the cork, once glued. If you have a power wrapper that is capable of turning cork, then you can glue the rings on the blank and go from there.

If this is your first one, I would suggest that you use a mandrel. Threaded rod works fine, just follow the instructions from others above. Also helps to coat with parrafin wax before gluing which helps to remove the finished grip.

Spey grips are long, 14" or so on the fore grip so make sure you use an adequate size rod to avoid too much bending. 1/2" or 5/8" should do it and still be a little smaller than your blank. You can go larger, just don't exceed your blank diameter.

Good luck, and buy Andy's DVD.

Terry

We like the threaded rod, if the grip does stick, you can just "unthread it" from the rod.
Be very careful about what you use to keep the grip from sticking to the mandrel, it may keep it from "sticking" well to the blank when installed.

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

I do the threaded rod technique for my grips.. Instead of coating with parrafin I wrap the threaded rod with teflon plumbers tape. the glue doesn't stick and the grip untwists when done.

Gary,

Great idea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!