Has anyone tried vaseline (Australia) or petroluem jelly on the threaded rod when glueing cork ring grips? (to stop it glueing)

Robert, If you mean applying vaseline to the mandril while gluing the cork segments together, then I would advise against using it.
I would be real concerned with the affect vaseline would have on the bond between blank and finished handle, and the difficulty a builder would experience removing vaseline residue from the cork.

Robert,

I tried HEAVILY coating a threaded rod with parrifin (sp?) wax and glueing a grip up on it. Didn't work worth a snot! I like to never got the grip off the threaded rod-I had to put the rod in a drill, lock it down and "unscrew" it off. Instead I bought some 1/4" brass non-threaded rods at the hardware store, and I use those to glue up the grips on, then transfer them to a mandrel. This keeps my mandrels clean and new looking...... and the brass rods work great forever, I just wax the brass rod before I apply the cork rings.

DR

I can't imagine the mess that petroleum jelly would make inside the grip. How would you get it all off so that you could bond it to the blank?? Seems like a lot of trouble when you can take a candle and rub it up and down the mandrel/threaded rod. A dollar store candle will last a LONG time. Keep in mind that you still can't overload the epoxy. If using Rod Bond, all you need is a fine film on the ring..

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Mike,
I thought you were using a hand clamp and removing the mandrel after applying pressure, as I am.

Jeff

I use the hand clamp but don't remove the rod (I use threaded rod for glueing and then transfer to Andy's mandrels to turn) I always worried that they would shift or something. I'll have to try that! Thanks.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

For cork mandrels I use old rod blanks coated with wax. Once the Rod Bond has cured, I remove my clamp. With just a little pressure the cork slides off.. The main reason I use old blanks is these blanks are about the same diameter as rod I am using. This way I do not have to do a lot extra reaming after. I just ream the cork just a smidgen smaller. Go when I apply the rod bond to the rod the cork slides on tight. No open gaps between the cork and blank.
Good Wraps Bob

Couple of ideas for you folks -- if you are using threaded rod you can use a THIN application of light sewing machine oil (3 in 1) on the rod. Wipe it on with a paper towel so that there is a very small amount in the threads. Put it on thin enough and the oil will not leave enough of a residue to affect later bonding --- besides you will likely be reaming out the cork to the proper diameter in any case and will be removing the transfer oil. For those who are using non-threaded brass (or other shafts) - try drill stops from the local hardware store as the end clamping device 2 inch diameter metal washer (with appropriate inside diameter ) and a drill stop at either end -- they're rather inexpensive and most have thumb screws to set the "stop"

My thanks to Robert = === those "drill stops" are also known == more corectly as collets / collet nuts