How tight do you make the cork grip on a pre-made handle fit on the blank? When I drilll/ream out my factory cork handle it can be made very tight or a bit loose on the blank. Do you leave a bit of space for the epoxy? If so, how much movement or space do you leave? I'm afraid my first two handles might have been too tight. I've been careful to try to not make the lower end of the handle tighter fitting than the upper.

Also as a side note, I just ordered the new Jet indexing mini lathe 1014 on Amazon for $189.00 with free shipping. Its not currently available but should ship next month. The price on this lathe seems to change every day on Amazon and sometimes the shippiing is free and sometimes not, but I got a good deal yesterday. I'm looking forward to making my own handles and not having to use the low grade ones I've so far been stuck with.

Thanks, Guys, for all the good answers I've received since starting this hobby last month.

Ed

When I can dry fit mine in position with just the littlest bit of force, I call it good. If it doesn't easily fit where you want it, it's too tight. I'm sure there's a lot more folks than just me who tried to lazy out on the reaming once and had a nice grip explode into pieces while forcing it that last 1/4".

The thinner the epoxy the better.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Do as Goldilocks would, "Not too tight, not too loose, but just right." Be aware that during final assembly the Rod Bond or oher adhesive will act as a lubricant, but if too tight, you risk splitting the cork. Also, try to judge where along the inside of the handle it is tightest/loosest and concentrate on reaming the tighest areas. All comes with experience, but that experience comes quickly, it's not really hard.

Just so tight that it easily slides in place but you can still fee the contact. If not that, then just a little looser than that. Use a two-part epoxy and slide the cork onto the rod, twisting it and pulling it back up just a bit to "coat" both the rod surface and the inside surface of the cork. Another trick is to use a fiel edge toi cut four grooves on the inside (inside the hole) so that the glue has "channels" to move into as you seat the cork.

I missed getting the Jet mini-lathe at the show for $180. I can make my own grips on one of Andy Dear's mandrels, or on the rod itself, but I WANT THE LATHE - just 'cause it's such a cool idea to be able to do stuff on it.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

Ed - that is a great price on the new Jet Mini - I got it for $199 with free shipping a few weeks ago from Amazon - it's a sweet lathe. The indexing feature has turned out to be very nice for things like securing the headstock from rotating while I mount a piece of wood in my Nova chuck - that way I only need one of the "tommy bars" to tighten the chuck. I grip the wood that way, then unscrew the indexing nut and finish tightening the chuck with both tommy bars. You will love it. I'm still acquiring tools, etc. but have started turning, just practicing, making sawdust. It's awesome. Now, I'm looking at making bowls, lidded boxes, etc. I suppose I'll probably make pens too, as they are very simple to make and very functional.

a month earlier than predicted. So no realy delay at present. Now I have to budget for all the extra stuff to use it! My first purchase will be the DVD from Lamar on lathes used in rodbuilding.