I've noticed (from the catalogs, not from actually seeing them) that some fly rod manufacturers have decided to compensate for the lack of good quality cork by turning the negative into a positive. They seem to be using cork that isn't uniform in color, leaving the pits unfilled, and darkening the cork to look antique. I especially noticed this in the LL Bean catalog on their rods, but the Sage rods seemed to have the same kind of handle treatment. I like the look. Does anyone know if they are achieving this look by using tru-oil (as mentioned by Andrew White in a previous post) or through some other means? Thanks!

I can't comment on the antique finish you're referencing, but recently I visited a new LL Bean store here in Eastern PA. Quite a few fly rods were on display, and in fact the quality of the cork was very poor. Unfortunately, this theme was carried out with their epoxy finish as well.

Tru Oil will darken the cork somewhat and also bring out the grain,,, I think it looks good, on good or bad cork.


<*)))><

Based on what I saw in the LL Bean magazine, it kinda' looks like they're just using mediocre cork. Granted, most cork you can find these days is kinda' poor, but theirs looks a little worse than average. To be fair, though, when you see a beautiful, perfect, almost white cork grip on a fancy factory rod in a magazine, I suspect that they filled all the pits perfectly, then touched up the photo a little. I don't know that for sure, but they just seem too perfect.

I like a couple coats of tru-oil on my cork. I also like the sort of amber, antique look, where the pits have been darkened. It makes CG1 and CG2 look really classy, IMO. And, it'll stay that way indefinitely. But, tru-oil just makes poor cork look really poor, as it accentuates all the pits.

Thanks for the info! Rob

We've tried "clear" spar varnish, and it darkens good cork a little, gives it a slightly darker look under the gloss, and turns the pits even darker. We've also used PermaGloss, Rod Varnish, and a half dozen other things - oddly enough, not True-Oil.

Part of what you see depends on how many coats were applied, and how abosrbent the cork was to begin with. Part of it has to do with the quality of the cork used. Part of it is the finish of the cork before anything is applied, and then the finishing work done between coats, if any. I think you have to go pretty high on any manufacturer's lines to get to where they are actually using good (much less great) cork. All the name makers are doing it. I used to use a splicing technique to repair cork handles where possible, but I stopped because I couldn't get any cork that bad to match, even once I'd cleaned up the old grips. I just went ahead and stripped the old stuff off and replaced it wholesale.

It's understandable but frustrating. It's sort of why I rarely used burl rings before - a lot of what was sold for burl was actually burned or charred rings, and would flake apart right in your hand, much less when you started working with them. Andy Dear solved that one for us.

We sort of solve it by asking our customers what grade of cork they want - good, better, best, or fantastic. We price accordingly. Even our "good" is way up there compare to "normal" - again, because folks like Andy are now supplying very good stuff, indeed.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

Have you guys used Cork Seal and had it last over the years? Thanks
Andrew